Category Archives: India

Celebrating 20 years with an imperial anniversary

In an unprecedented splurge, Tony and I celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary this weekend with two nights at the Imperial Hotel in New Delhi. We relaxed, soaked up the decadence, and ate and ate and ate. I actually gained two kilos in two days.

The hotel brought a little cake to our room, but I never even took a bite. There were too many other yummy temptations!
Untitled

Friday night, we dined at Spice Route. It was named one one of the top 10 restaurants in the world by Condé Nast Traveler. All I know is the meal ranks among the top 10 in my life. Here’s the description from the hotel’s website. I really couldn’t say it any better:

Heralded as one of the top ten restaurants in the world by Condé Nast Traveler, The Spice Route is poetry in design. The renowned restaurant mesmerizes all your senses enrapturing you with its sensuous exotica. Designed by Rajeev Sethi, the celebrated cultural czar of India, The Spice Route reflects the journey of spices from the Malabar Coast in Kerala through Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Malaysia, and Indonesia to Thailand and Vietnam. The restaurant is an overwhelming visual depiction of the art and culture that travelled with the spices through these regions, presented in a folk, religious and cultural fantasy of the Orient. The Restaurant, that was seven years in the making, is completely hand painted with vegetable and flower dyes by mural painters brought in especially from a temple in Guruvayur in Kerala with a tradition dating back to 3000 years. Designed on the principles of Feng Shui, The Spice Route is a treasure trove of antiques and is divided into nine different sections, each depicting part of the journey of life. Besides the stunning décor, The Spice Route boasts a menu that ensnares the taste buds of a seasoned food connoisseur. The Spice Route Courtyard transports the guests to the wonderful world of Southeast Asia. Adorned with traditional Thai sculptures from the Chiang Mai region in northern Thailand, the Courtyard is a visual spectacle. A picture perfect water body with floating candles and thoughtfully strewn petals forms the center of the Courtyard. The far end of the pavilion has traditional Khantok seating for six under an Oriental pagoda.

I tried to take photos, but it was too dark. This photo is from the hotel’s website.
spice route

Here’s a pic of the set menu we enjoyed. Can you spot the typo? Doh!
Untitled

On Saturday, we gorged at the stunning buffet breakfast. I was still so full from our late dinner that I couldn’t fully take advantage of all the delicacies on display. I skipped the fresh bread, soft cheeses and thinly sliced meats altogether! That’s not like me. To avoid a repeat of this poor performance, we planned our day accordingly. No lunch. Late afternoon high tea. No dinner.

In a vain attempt to burn some calories, we went for a walk around the neighborhood and stumbled on the Jantar Mantar. The name rang a bell, but I had no idea it was a collection of structures used as astronomy instruments in the 1700s. So fascinating! Right in the heart of the city. I love this kind of stuff.

Here’s the scoop on Jantar Mantar from the website Delhi Capital.

Jantar Mantar is also called Delhi Observatory. It is maintained by the Jaipur government because it was built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur (in 1727). It is a remarkable structure which consists of fourteen geometric devices used for measuring time, forecasting weather changes, predicting behaviour of planets and finding extraterrestrial altitude. All these devices are fixed structures and point to a specific direction. The largest device or instrument is the Samrat Jantar which is 90 feet high and its shadow is plotted in such a manner so that is shows the exact time of the day. Any weather change or the onset of monsoons can be ascertained by the Hindu Chhatri, which is a small domed structure. The whole structure is made of stone and marble with each of then having an engraved astronomical scale. Jantar Mantar finally got the status of a national monument in 1948. It has always attracted architects, historians and scientists from all over the world. Maharaja Jai Singh was a fanatical astronomer himself who studied various works from Hindu, Muslim and European astronomy. He had the perception that the tables used by the pundits were deceptive and the actual planetary changes and predictions of eclipses would not have been possible through these measuring parameters. So he thought that he would find an improved and efficient means through which exact prediction could be made. It was his own inspiration and foresightedness that gave shape to such an instrument. He built other observatories at Jaipur, Ujjain, Benares and Mathura to have an exact calculation. It took almost seven years before the whole structure was fully operational because he wanted to be fully satisfied with the accuracy of the instruments at Jantar Mantar.

I also found an interesting pdf compiled by a Cornell University professor. You can link to it here.

I had to skip out for a few hours and snap back to reality: Middle School play practice. I’m one of the make-up crew coordinators, so I drove to school, did my part, and then zipped back to the Imperial, where the formally clad doorman with a handlebar mustache greeted me: “Welcome home, madam.” I wish.

Delhi’s temperatures continue to climb into the mid-90s, so Tony and I took a refreshing dip in the expansive blue-tiled pool. Lounging in the shade, we watched weary tourists climb out of their buses to snap photos of our historic hotel, making us feel even more grateful for the opportunity to stay there.

High tea was a highlight of the weekend. Sunlight flooded the hotel’s atrium, where we sat on wicker chairs with thick orange cushions and sipped sea from fine china. Elegant white vases with a single bird-of-paradise graced each table. The buffet featured mini muffins, scones with jam and clotted cream and typical teatime treats, but we also loaded up our plates with goat cheese samosas, bruschetta with prosciutto ham and artichoke hearts, mini sandwiches with chorizo, and other savories.
Untitled

Sunday morning’s breakfast buffet was bittersweet. We lingered as long as we could, but there was no denying the end of our fairytale weekend. Lately we’ve spent a lot of time pondering our 20-plus years together and marveling at all we have done and seen. Sometimes we start to reminisce about an adventure and it takes both our memories to fully reconstruct the experience. There have been countless ridiculous inside jokes, so much laughter, but also tears as we have leaned on each other in times of unfathomable heartache. Our travels have brought us closer together and oftentimes pushed us apart, but we always find our way home. I treasure our history together, and I happily add this Imperial weekend to my scrapbook of memories.

Juggling juxtapositions in Hauz Khas Village

Time Out Delhi, a weekly magazine about the goings-on around town, ran a small story this week on a new gelato truck that parks in one of my favorite neighborhoods – Hauz Khas Village. I already enjoy poking around the HKV shops and checking out the trendy restaurants. Now there’s a gelato truck? Say no more. I had a plan for my Sunday afternoon.

After memorizing the google map, I felt confident I could drive there. (It’s just 15 minutes and two left turns from my ‘hood.) Katrina and Tony patiently rode along, gently encouraging me for the most part. Only HKV residents can park in the community, so we found a spot on the street and walked uphill into the jumbled mess of trendiness. I searched in vain for the gelato truck. I knew I shouldn’t have gotten my hopes up!

At first glance, HKV looks more like a crumbling slum than one of Delhi’s most affluent, artsy, hipster destinations. Like mismatched stacked legos, the buildings rise up precariously and jut out into the path at odd angles. Electrical wires snake across the outer walls, meet in massive tangled balls and trail off in various directions. Tiny retail spaces wedge into dark alleys with haute couture boutiques side-by-side with ramshackle kitschy knick-knack shops.

Walking from the car to the restaurant, we passed the flagship store for one of India’s premier designers; tentatively hopped over a stream of sewage; trekked down a steep path lined with art galleries and hobbit-sized shops selling hand-made paper products, high-end baby clothes, jewelry, antique furniture and Bollywood posters; admired the graffiti in an empty lot full of broken glass and scrap metal; sidestepped a pile of dog doo (which some good Samaritan later covered with a piece of plywood); cringed when water dripped on us from above (… just assume it’s from at air conditioner …); and finally stepped in to the Grey Garden, a teeny eatery with room for 12 patrons and a little kitchen. Hard to believe such a nasty path could lead to such a cool spot.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

After a refreshing summer salad, thin-crust pizza and lemonade, we set our sights on some Hauz Khas history.
Untitled

Indeed, this funky metropolis overlooks the ruins of a medieval city. The area’s name – “Hauz Khas” in Urdu – translates to “royal reservoir” and stems from the large water tank first dug in the 13th century. It eventually dried up but was rebuilt by 14th-century Emperor Feroz Shah Tughlaq, who is also buried here.
Untitled

In 1352, Feroz Shah established a “madrasa” or Islamic university, which was staffed with “scholars of note” and attracted the brightest students. Today, students continue to flock here, but mostly just to canoodle in the ancient doorways overlooking the lake.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Tony was too nervous to canoodle when he saw the drop-off.
Untitled

Climbing around above the reservoir.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Katrina and I wanted to stroll lakeside a bit to see the ruins from below. To reach the reservoir, we could have jumped off a high stone wall and then climbed over a spiked gate (like many of the locals) or walked a little out of the way to an access path. We chose the latter plan, although it meant we had to edge along a narrow wall to avoid stepping in the sewage stream. Down by the water, we shot a few photos, dodged a few monkeys and then climbed back up the hill to meet Tony.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

After reuniting with Tony, we were heading to the car when something caught my eye and made me jump with glee. The gelato truck! We met Michael, the genius Italian guy behind Gelato Roma, and expressed our enthusiasm for his new business. We eagerly picked out our flavors – I had chocolate, roasted almond and lemon sorbet.
Untitled

Untitled

Parked next to the gelato truck was another snack stand: corn. Ummm … no, thank you. I’m pretty sure this kid is saying, “Stupid gelato truck, stealing all my business.”
Untitled

For more info on HKV, check out these articles.
New York Times Travel, 2011
CNN-GO, 2011
Wikipedia’s take on the ruins

Art, tree talk, ancient ruins and laundry – strolling near Mandi House

To kick off our 4-day weekend, I hooked up with my go-to gal for walking tours – Surekha of Delhi Metro Walks. Yesterday’s tour started near Mandi House, Delhi’s cultural hub. Surekha introduced us to an area of town that glittered with art, theatre and innovative architecture in the 1950s. We meandered down quiet shady lanes, making note of the many museums, art galleries, performance venues and other cultural attractions, many of which helped to bring Delhi into the modern era. My favorite spots on this walking tour were most definitely NOT modern, but I’ll save the best for last.

I bet you don’t think of scenes like THIS when you picture New Delhi! Wide sidewalks free of dogs, cows and monkeys – such a treat.
Untitled

Allow me a short vent about how frustrating it is that most Delhi cultural outlets do NOT have their own website. It takes a LOT of legwork to find out what’s going on at these places. Nevertheless, based on the walking tour, here are newly added items on my to-to list:
* Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra, a Delhi cultural institution, has staged the Ramlila every autumn since 1957, telling the story of Ram through music, dance and drama. According to the organization’s website, “The story of Ram has been handed down to us as ‘the conquest of good over evil’. Ram’s life consists of a multitude of episodes where his divinity and compassion come forth. It is time to lift the subtle but impregnable veil that lies between the divine and us, thereby making our own lives more meaningful.”

* Triveni Kala Sangam, a center for arts education, performance and exhibition, is housed in a historic building designed by American architect Joseph Stein. With several galleries and auditoriums, a sculpture garden and terrace cafe, it’s a place worthy of lingering.

* A Hindustan Times article from last year described the Shri Ram Centre for Performing Arts as “one of the most prominent cultural organisations of the Capital.” It offers up plays in both Hindi and English, so I’ll have to keep an eye out for an English-language production. The building, designed by Indian architect Shiv Nath Prasad, was inspired by the poured-concrete modernism of the West in the late ’60s and early ’70s and is considered innovative for its seemingly gravity-defying cylindrical base topped with an overhanging rectangle. Although not necessarily attractive, the performing arts center was especially meaningful for me in that Tony’s father was a successful architect in Kansas City during the same era and designed precisely the same style of buildings!

* Safdar Hashmi Memorial Trust honors Safdar Hashmi, a political activist and actor who was murdered while performing a street play in 1989. This organization actually DOES have a website: sahmat.org, which explains that SAHMAT promotes performances, exhibitions, book publications, posters, audio recordings, and so on to “uphold the values of secularism and cultural pluralism … and to underline the concept of unity in diversity of the Indian nation and the people.”

Surekha (and many of her groupies) love discussing the local flora, so she often pauses the walking tour to consult her Trees of Delhi book and share the wisdom. I know this is a genuine passion for many people, and I do appreciate the presence of so much green in this big city; I just don’t need to know the names of everything. I’d rather spend more time on the history and the culture. Anyway, here’s a cool tree we talked about. No, I don’t remember its name.
Untitled

OK, I have to admit this tree is pretty amazing. A wee part of me wishes I had paid attention when Surekha identified it.
IMG_0885

I remember that this one was the Sandpaper Tree, and sure enough, Kathleen said, “Its leaves feel sandpapery!”
Untitled

Another interesting stop on the tour was a former palace built by a Bahawalpur prince in 1937. Now home to the National School of Dance and other offices, the white-washed palace stands strong, but the once impressive gardens were sacrificed to the city’s growing metro system.
Katrina rests and enjoys a view of the metro construction site.
Untitled

Surekha shares the history of the building and efforts to conserve it.
Untitled

A cobbled-together Shiva shrine at the site.
Untitled

After an introduction to modern Delhi’s cultural scene, we walked through a gate and back in time for a rest stop at Agrasen ki Baoli, a 14th-century step well.
Untitled

Perched at the top of 103 steep steps, we enjoyed cookies and tea poured by the local chai wallah.
Untitled

Surekha explained that during her last visit to the baoli, she ran into her friend’s driver and asked, “What are you doing here?” He was flustered and clearly didn’t want to say. Then she noticed her friend’s son selling chai. He had apparently quit his job to start his chai business and then struck a deal with his mother’s driver – a ride to work in exchange for free tea. So Surekha struck her own deal – she’ll keep her mouth closed in exchange for tea breaks for her tour groups.

With Connaught Place – Delhi’s high-rise financial and commercial district – in the background, the historic baoli offered a beautiful juxtaposition.
Untitled

Our posse – Katrina, Nancy, me, Beth, Kathleen.
IMG_4427

Leaving the baoli, we had walked only a short distance when we started to see bed sheets and clothes drying in the streets.
Untitled

I knew we were getting close to the Devi Prasad Sadan Dhobi Ghat, an open-air laundromat where washermen – called dhobis – wash clothes and linens for local hotels, businesses and families. I had been looking forward to this all day!

Various styles of wash basins filled the courtyard. Some men bent over raised tubs, scrubbing with coarse brushes. Others stood thigh-deep in sunken tubs, swishing laundry through the soapy water. Others worked in elevated cubicles, flogging wet towels on concrete tables before draping them over a wall. Machines lined the perimeter, but these were unlike any washing machines I had ever seen.

This friendly dhobi stood by as bubbles poured out of his washing machine.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

This lady was cooking up something liquidy and white over the fire. I asked if it was food, but she explained (through an interpreter) that she was making starch from arrowroot powder.
Untitled

No electric dryer here.
Untitled

Ironing pile. Ugh. Women do the ironing here in this small dark room.
Untitled

Folding the sheets.
Untitled

Outside the dhobi ghat.
Untitled

According to the Hindustan Times (May 21, 2011), 35 dhobis work at the ghat. They charge 15 rupees (28 cents) per item. In an emergency, you can pay 20 rupees (37 cents) and have it delivered within four hours.

Leaving the dhobi ghat, we spotted this security guard getting a curbside shave. Surekha made us all pose around him for a photo! The barber got a good laugh out of it, but I think his client was unimpressed.
Untitled

Presidential confusion

Here is a conversation from my morning in third grade. Kids were “shopping for books” in the classroom library, and these little boys were obsessed with a book about Abe Lincoln. (Names have been changed to protect the sweet innocent little ding dongs.)
Bob: Abraham Lincoln is my favorite president.
Me: Why?
Bob: Because he has a cool hat and he carries an ax.
Tom: And he hunts vampires.
Bob: Yeah, he hunts vampires.
Me: Hmmm … you know that’s just a movie, right? He didn’t really hunt vampires. I don’t think he carried an ax around, either.
Bob: He still has a cool hat.
Tom: My second favorite president is George Washington Carver.
Me: OK … he actually wasn’t a president. George Washington was president. George Washington CARVER invented peanut butter. So that’s still pretty special.
Tom: Oh, that’s awesome.
Bob: You know who else was cool? John Adams and his brother John Q. Adams.
Me: Right. Ummm … John Adams was the dad of John Quincy Adams. They weren’t brothers.
Bob: Oh, but they’re still really cool.
Me: Hey, do you want me to find some books on American presidents for you guys?
Bob: Yeah! I like to read about them.
Me: That’s a good plan. I’m on it.

Sparks fly at middle school play practice

I have filled my life with drama this year. School drama, that is.

Today we had a rehearsal for the middle school play, “The Fireworks Maker’s Daughter,” and the drama teacher, Thaba, wanted students to think about the physicality of working with and watching fireworks. Obviously, we won’t set off real fireworks in the theater, so she elicited ideas about how the stagecraft class might design props and explained that dancers will BE the fireworks in some scenes. To spark their imaginations, she brought them all to the field for a mid-day fireworks show.

Students crowded around our visiting fireworks expert, Mohinder, who unloaded a big bag of goodies. Thaba reminded kids to closely monitor the actions involved in lighting fireworks. As the fireworks exploded, shrieked, swirled, whistled, and showered sparks, she encouraged actors and dancers to remember their own physical reactions. Back in the rehearsal space, students debriefed and shared fantastic insights gleaned from the experience.

Such a fun, creative, caring bunch of adults. Such talented, reflective, committed kids. Sometimes I have to pinch myself.
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Furniture shopping – it’s all fun and games till someone breaks a window

All last year, our TV sat on top of a cute little Tibetan cabinet I bought in China. The cords and cables intertwined with those of the stereo system and DVD player to form a spaghetti-esque jumble on a school-provided coffee table stashed behind the cabinet. Every time I entered the living room, the cord jumble caught my eye and made me cringe, but wall sconces and our massive Chinese day bed limited our ability to rearrange the furniture. Sliding all over the New Delhi learning curve, I couldn’t cope with shopping for a TV cabinet. When we returned to India in August – no longer the “newbies” and equipped with our own car and driver – I felt ready to take on the challenge. Or so I thought. As it turned out, finding a cabinet was the easy part.

My friend Sandra wanted to visit Gujarat Haveli, a furniture showroom on the outskirts of town. With her husband, Dan, and our new counselor, Holli, we browsed through disorganized acres of random furnishings salvaged from homes, temples, palaces and other buildings mostly in the western state of Gujarat. It took a good eye to spot treasures in the dank cavernous storage areas.

Intricately carved wooden arches leaned against large trunks adorned with stamped-tin peacocks and secured with heavy metal locks. Thick with dust, broken chairs, benches, wide shallow bowls, and splintered distressed boards with protruding nails towered toward the flickering florescent lights. One room featured a lacy wooden screen about 15 feet high and 40 feet long. Narrow paths wove between stacked dressers, cabinets, bookshelves, headboards, mirrors, desks, and random carved figures, some small enough to sit on a shelf and some taller than me. I kept giggling in the spirit of discovery. Occasionally I would stop walking, stand in place, peruse my immediate vicinity and try to process every item in sight, but it was impossible. Looking at my photos, I spot objects I missed in person.

I became a little obsessed with this piece, which must have been a door frame. It’s huge. It would take up most of a wall in our apartment. It would be an irrational purchase, but I keep dreaming of it all cleaned up and polished.
Untitled

Outdoors, exposed to the monsoon rains, beautiful doors, lintels and other carved woodwork leaned against the buildings.
Untitled

A mountain of scrap metal teetering outside one warehouse had – upon closer inspection – lovely wrought-iron artwork with curlicue designs peeking out from rusted wire and brass pots.
Untitled

Dan named this basin of water “the dengue pot.” After battling dengue fever last year, he has legitimate reasons to fear standing water and mosquito breeding grounds.
Untitled

The big head sitting among other knick-knacks amused me.
Untitled

Here are some more photos.

Fortunately, some of the warehouse space showcased finished furnishings, slightly more organized and somewhat easier to scrutinize. In addition to the restored antiques, the company sells new pieces – some built from scratch, some using old wood.
Untitled

In one of those rooms, I found exactly what I needed! The company’s owner said the front and sides of the cabinet were built from old hardwood, but the back is new. It’s hard to know what to believe. All I know is I like it.
Untitled

By the end of our visit, we had all purchased some large pieces, so we arranged for delivery the next day. That’s where this story takes a turn for the worse.

On Sunday, Aug. 12, the day after our shopping excursion, I looked out the window of our second-story apartment to see a truck and half a dozen scrawny delivery men. Tony ran downstairs to ensure our new cabinet could fit in the narrow stairwell. Otherwise, we could hoist it up to our balcony, which the moving company did with all our other large furniture. He came back upstairs and reported the cabinet was small enough to clear the ceiling and our doorway if it came up the stairs. The delivery men simply needed to carry it upright. Soon after making this determination, we heard a loud smashing sound, followed by another and another. Frozen in shock, we reacted slowly. By the time we got to the stairwell, the cream-colored walls were streaked with red from the battered corners of our new cabinet. The men had turned it sideways for the trip up the stairs. At the bend, they discovered the cabinet was too long to make the turn. They apparently believed the wall would somehow yield if they swung the cabinet around the corner hard enough.

Tony shouted, “Stop! Stop!” But before they could process his instructions, they gave the cabinet one more big heave, which smashed out the stairwell window. This was too much for me to handle with grace. While Tony turns angry in the face of excessive stress, I often start laughing hysterically. (Ask my dad to tell the story of his newly painted garage and my newly acquired driver’s license.) So I started to laugh and shriek. “They BROKE the freakin’ window!” I howled. Tony was bellowing and dropping f-bombs, but the delivery men didn’t seem to understand and continued their pillage up our stairs.

At the doorway to our foyer, they could have turned the cabinet upright and inched it into the living room. Instead, they kept it on its side and, like a battering ram, pounded it into the entrance wall repeatedly, gouging out chunks of plaster and molding, ripping the doorbell off its mounting, and breaking a foot off the cabinet. When one of the men handed Tony the foot, I thought my husband’s head would explode.

I stopped laughing and quickly dialed Jagdish, the owner of Gujarat Haveli. As I explained the situation, Tony hollered in the background, “It’s like a car full of clowns tried to carry our cabinet up the stairs!”

Jagdish agreed to come immediately to see the damage. Tony admonished the delivery men and told them not to go anywhere until Jagdish arrived, but they made a break for it when we weren’t paying attention. When Jagdish got to our home, I started laughing again. Honestly, I didn’t even know what to say. Tony and I pointed out the damage in our stairwell and in our foyer. We showed him the broken cabinet. He shook his head and looked dismayed. He expressed frustration with his employees. He offered to fix the window and instructed a workman to reattach the cabinet’s broken foot, but otherwise he made no attempt to compensate us.

We had expected him to gush with apologies and perhaps even offer a token gift from his showroom or a discount on our cabinet. That didn’t happen. Jagdish kept asking, “Madam, what do you want? What would make you happy?” I honestly didn’t know. We still owed him about half the cost of the cabinet, but we weren’t ready to hand over the cash. We told him we needed to think about it. On his way out the door, he turned back and said, “You know, such things happen. You could be out driving your car and someone hits you.”

“Yes, and then they would have to pay for it,” I said, overenunciating “pay.”

“Not in India!” he responded. And off he went.

Stunned, Tony and I sat silently for a few minutes. We discussed the situation and agreed that we would rather have our school’s maintenance department fix the window. Otherwise, we’d have no recourse if it were done badly. I called Jagdish and reminded him that he had asked what would make me happy. Here’s what I told him:

“I like your warehouse. You have beautiful pieces, and your prices are lower than other places in Delhi. I believe you are essentially an honest man with poorly trained delivery men. I want to recommend your company to my friends and colleagues at the American Embassy School. However, you have to understand we expect a certain level of customer service. We shouldn’t have to beg for it. If you or your employees cause any inconvenience to your customers, you need to immediately make some gesture to express your sincere apology and appreciation. I don’t want you to fix the window or paint my walls, but I do want you to make such a gesture.”

Unable to fathom my meaning, he kept asking for a specific request, so I insisted on a small reduction in the price of my purchase.

He tried to explain how that cabinet sells for a much higher price and he already gave me a steep discount, which led me to say once again, “They BROKE a freakin’ window.” We ultimately came to an agreement, and he turned his car around to come back for the rest of his money.

Despite the delivery drama, we do love our new cabinet.
Untitled

Untitled

Patience and appreciation

Yesterday was Back to School Night at the American Embassy School, New Delhi. Here’s what BTSN tends to look like for English as an Additional Language teachers:

Me – Hello, everybody! Thank you for coming. (gesture at PowerPoint) I’d like to tell you a little bit about myself and our EAL program.

Hands go up. I call on a parent.
Parent – What does my child need to do to get out of the EAL program?

Me – (smiling) Well, I’ll get to that in a minute. First, I’d like to explain how I work with your child’s teacher to help meet English learning needs and ensure that all kids feel successful in third grade.

Same Parent – Yeah, but how long till they can go to Spanish or French instead?

Me – (still smiling) I promise I will explain our process for transitioning out of EAL, but I think it’s important for everyone to understand how the program works. I spend time in your child’s classroom every day …

Same Parent interrupting me – Yeah, but my son speaks English every day and he says he’s bored in EAL. So when can he get out?

Me – Maybe YOU should tell ME why in the world you would NOT want your child to have an additional TEACHER in the room providing EXTRA English language support and helping your kid to access the third-grade curriculum? Will you please explain WHY you wouldn’t want your child to learn strategies for building his vocabulary, strengthening his understanding of English grammar and developing his reading comprehension? Help me understand WHY you think learning French or Spanish is so important for a third grader who is still learning the language of instruction at our school???

No, of course I would NEVER say that. But … I admit I do think it. Instead, I usually just take a breath, remind myself that most parents don’t have a degree in language acquisition and suggest that we set up another meeting to chat about that specific child.

I’ve had THAT kind of BTSN many times over the years. Yesterday’s BTSN was NOT one of them! What a relief!

Parents asked important questions about learning English, choosing appropriate books, how to support English learning at home, expectations in the classroom and so on. With heart-warming sincerity, they openly discussed the challenges their children face daily as English learners in an English-medium school.

All teachers play therapist now and then. I hope I was able to reassure parents that their children are in good hands. Many of our teachers, including me, are Third-Culture Kids. We understand and empathize with students living outside their home culture, surrounded by peers of myriad ethnicities.

Our principal, Susan Young, started a tradition of giving teachers Power Rocks at the start of school. A local calligrapher writes inspirational words in English and Sanskrit on the rocks, and we choose the ones that resonate with us.

Last year, I chose “patience.” This year, I chose “appreciation.” Sitting on my classroom desk, the rocks remind me every morning to approach the school day with gentleness; assume children, parents and teachers have the best intentions; and to give even the most stubborn kids opportunities to shine and share what makes them special.

I hope the parents who visited school last night felt a spirit of patience and appreciation.

Untitled

Delhi Driving

What’s your first reaction to this photo?
2012-08-15 11.54.07

If you gasped in shock and muttered, “What kind of fool would get behind the wheel in New Delhi, India?” then we’re on the same page.

That’s exactly how I reacted to the idea of driving here when we first arrived last August. After 10 months of taxi transport – flailing around in the backseats during death-defying U-turns, repeatedly hitting speed bumps/potholes/medians at full speed, seeking out physical therapy for my neck and then undoing those sessions on the roller coaster ride home, and dodging drunk drivers in the oncoming traffic – I guess I figure “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.”

As you know, we took possession of our new-to-us car and driver when we returned to India after the summer. Gilbert, a careful diligent driver, takes us to and from school on weekdays in our little air-conditioned comfy Honda. We’re on our own come Saturday and Sunday.

Last weekend, we awoke to yet another electricity-free morning. I knew it would come back on eventually, but I had work to do that required internet access. I could have called a taxi, but the car sat in front of our house, taunting me. “Seriously? You’re going to take a taxi to school when you own a perfectly fine car?”

I bravely climbed in the passenger side before remembering it’s all backward here. The steering wheel is on the right, and we drive on the left. “Keep your watch to the curb” was Tony’s mantra when we rented a scooter in Thailand, so I kept that in mind as I pulled out of our neighborhood. That was 7 a.m. and the roads were relatively free of traffic. Unfortunately, my driving efforts were rewarded with no internet and no network access at school, so I did a couple hours of lesson planning and then headed home, still early enough to beat the crowds.

Although that morning certainly was liberating, I broke through another barrier Wednesday (not LITERALLY, although that wouldn’t be so unusual here). I drove at night! Yikes! I have mediocre night vision under the best of circumstances, but Delhiwallas keep their brights on, thus blinding all oncoming drivers.

We had the day off Wednesday for India’s Independence Day, so I drove to school, picked up my friend Katrina, drove a couple blocks to a luncheon, drove back to school to work for a couple hours, got back in the car with Katrina and drove to the Australian High Commission for a Zumba class and then dropped my friend Nancy at her house on my way home!

That’s a lot of driving!
In. Delhi.

Katrina only had to remind me once that I was in the wrong lane, and my left arm did go limp with terror when I had to downshift while merging with fast-moving cars coming off the highway. But Nancy gave me lots of props, nonetheless.

Here are some ways driving in Delhi differs from driving in Michigan:

* As I mentioned, the steering wheel is on the other side. But who knew the windshield wiper and turn signal were switched? Every time I wanted to signal, I cleaned the windshield instead. Finally, I just followed the lead of my fellow drivers and stopped signalling my turns.

* Obviously, you have to shift with your left hand. If you are ambidextrous, this may not seem like a big deal. If your left arm is more like a jellyfish tentacle, you can relate to my anxiety.

* Because the steering wheel is on the other side, the bulk of the car is ALSO on the other side. Instead of your body riding close to the curb, your body has to stay near the center line or you will clip someone on the road shoulder.

* Oh, did I suggest there’s a shoulder? There’s not.

* Staying in a lane is not only optional, it’s actually unwise. You’ll never get through an intersection if you insist on lining up behind cars stopped at the light. You must inch around them and squeeze up to the front. Then when the light changes, you jockey for a spot in the crawling mass.

* Never use your mirrors or otherwise look behind you. If someone wants to pass, he’ll honk. If someone pulls into your blind spot, he’ll honk.

* You must remember to honk. This is not an automatic reflex for me. In addition to the honk-worthy situations listed above, you must honk your horn to warn anyone or anything – pedestrians, tuk-tuk drivers, cyclists, cows, dogs, kite-flying children, beggars, motorbikes overflowing with full families, fruit peddlers, parked vehicles, construction workers, packs of youngsters in school uniforms, bicycle rickshaws piled high with cardboard/mattresses/furniture/gas canisters/etc., fill-in-the-blank – lingering in the road that you are approaching.

* Bottom line: Anything goes.

I haven’t ventured too far from home yet, and I certainly haven’t encountered the worst that Delhi has to offer. However, my initial feeling is that I can do this. Freedom!

Dare to get in with me?
2012-08-15 11.55.00

Happy Independence Day, India!

India got a shout out from Google today.
india12-hp

Today marks India’s 65th birthday as an independent democratic nation. Here’s the scoop from wikipedia:

The Independence Day of India, celebrated on 15 August, is a holiday commemorating India’s independence from the British rule and its birth as a sovereign nation on 15 August 1947. India achieved independence following the Indian independence movement noted for largely peaceful nonviolent resistance and civil disobedience led by the Indian National Congress. The independence coincided with the partition of India wherein the British Indian Empire was divided along religious lines into two new states—Dominion of India (later Republic of India) and Dominion of Pakistan (later Islamic Republic of Pakistan); the partition was stricken with violent communal riots. The Independence Day is a national holiday in India. The flagship event takes place in Delhi where the Prime Minister hoists the national flag at the Red Fort, followed by a nationally broadcast speech from its ramparts. The day is observed all over India with flag-hoisting ceremonies, parades and cultural events. Citizens rejoice the day by displaying the national flag on their attire, household accessories, vehicles; varied activities such as kite flying, bonding with family and friends, and enjoying patriotic songs and films are seen.

Our elementary school assembly yesterday spotlighted many of India’s symbols, including the peacock, lotus flower, tiger and flag. Know India is a nice website with more information. A student led the school in singing India’s national anthem, “Jana Gana Mana,” a gentle beautiful song written by the late poet Rabindra Nath Tagore. Check out this YouTube video to hear it and read the English translation.

Lots of kite flying and bubble blowing in the ‘hood today. As for me, I’m planning to crash a single ladies pool party for lunch and then head to Zumba class!

Sweaty return to India

Our first full day back in New Delhi was a sweaty one.The mercury only reached 82 degrees F (around 27 C), but the monsoon air hung heavy even during pauses in the rain.

When we lost power last year (an almost-daily occurrence), we would check the breaker box. If that didn’t do the trick, we’d wait an hour or so to see whether it fixed itself, which it sometimes did. If it didn’t, we panicked. Among the countless lessons embedded in our India learning curve is the fact that our school provides workers who will drop everything, come to our house and solve electrical problems. So rather than panicking when the lights flickered and died and the A/C fizzled around noon today, I picked up the phone to dial the Facilities Management Office. It didn’t take long for the electrician to arrive, adjust our back-up batteries to get a few lights, fans and the fridge back to work. With sweat dripping into his ears, he smiled and said, “No A/C.” Then he pointed to all the big appliances and said, “No this. No this.” And so on. I asked if the problem was unique to our house. He made a big sweeping gesture and said, “Many people.”

He wasn’t kidding.

Screen Shot 2012-07-31 at 7.10.16 PM

According to the Huffington Post article, half the country lost power today when two electricity grids collapsed. SIX HUNDRED MILLION people. Imagine if every single person in the United States lost power; now double that number! It’s more than the entire population of the European Union. Unbelievable.

We’re among the lucky ones. The Huff Post noted that one-third of India’s population live off the grid with no access to electricity in the best of times. Even during the power outage, the back-up batteries kept the ceiling fans circulating air, and our refrigerated food was safe. Plus, our power returned in full by 6 p.m. (No guaranties that it will last all night, but we’ll take what we can get.)

As if a massive power outage weren’t bad enough, I was even more horrified at the sight of TWO monkeys outside my house. Two big, nasty, aggressive monkeys. And where there are two, there are surely more (or they’ll make more). They climbed a fence across the street and ripped flowers off the trees for a snack. One reason I love my Vasant Vihar neighborhood is the dearth of monkeys. We have lots of roaming cows, but up till now, no monkeys. Massive crows squawked at the nasty creatures, and I saw some street kids chucking rocks. I can only hope the monkeys feel unwelcome and move on.