Category Archives: Laos

Wats ‘O’ the Week – Luang Prabang Temples

This week’s installment of Wat ‘O’ the Week comes to you from Luang Prabang, where my sister and I celebrated Wat Wednesday. The historic little city in northern Laos boats 32 Buddhist temples built before the French showed up in 1887 for 58 years of colonization. Much to Megan’s relief, I didn’t make her visit all of them.
We were on the quest of a particular novice monk, who chatted with my friends, Tony and Rand, during their visit to Luang Prabang last fall. So we started at the temple where he was supposed to be “stationed” (or whatever verb you use to describe where a monk lives). “Novice Lai works at Blah Blah Temple now,” a monk told us. Only he didn’t say “blah blah,” and we were too intimidated to ask for clarification. I thought I heard a word that started with “K,” and the monk gestured in a direction that had only a few more blocks before we would hit the confluence of the Kham and Mekong rivers. So how hard could it be?
Unfortunately, we never found Lai. Sometimes being a girl traveler is a real disadvantage, particularly when it comes to approaching monks. They were all friendly enough, but Meg and I both worried that we were violating some patriarchal protocol by walking past the regular temple buildings to hunt down Lai in the residential areas.
However, we did enjoy visiting a few temples before heading back to Vientiane. Here are some highlights:

Wat Sene Soukharama
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Built in 1714, this temple had some interesting details.
The windows were pretty flashy.
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In the Buddha chapel, I loved that someone put a tiny elephant on one of Buddha’s big toes.
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This funky guy with a fish in his claws was a nice touch.
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Wat Sop Sickharam
These monks picked a perfect spot for studying.
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Rice cakes were drying in the sun at the temple.
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Wat Sirimounkhounsayaram
We walked around this temple, but I didn’t take any photos. It wins the prize for longest name, though.

Wat Xieng Thong
This is Luang Prabang’s most famous temple. Construction on the sim (ordination hall) started in 1560 right on the banks of the Mekong River, and other buildings were added over the years. The sim’s sweeping roof is considered a hallmark of traditional Luang Prabang temple architecture.
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The back of the sim features a spectacular “tree of life” mosaic, and similar mosaics cover the exterior walls of other buildings on the temple grounds, as well.
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I always enjoy seeing daily life depicted in art like this detail of villagers cutting rice, particularly meaningful next to the offering of sticky rice that someone had placed on the ledge.
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Inside the temple’s carriage house, we saw a 12-meter-high (39-foot-high) funeral carriage.
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Pretty detail on the carriage house door.
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We also liked this Buddha in the carriage house. He’s standing in the posture that’s often associated with making peace with relatives, but the expression on his face suggests he’s thinking, “Seriously, I have to break up another squabble? Come on, people! Where’s the love?”
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Cookin’ Up a Lao Storm

As we all know, cooking is not my forte. (See my Christmas cookie post for background.) However, my baby sister, Megan, is quite at home in the kitchen and doesn’t shirk from scary paraphernalia such as the VitaMix and lemon zesters. Too broke to shop and too lazy to head out on an adventure tour, we signed up for a cooking class at Tamnak Lao Restaurant.

We met at the restaurant’s cooking school at 10 a.m. today. The rest of our class comprised an American couple working in Singapore, a French Canadian family on vacation, a German guy who leads bike tours in China and his parents, and a Danish university student. Of course, I just wanted to sit outside with a cold beer and chat with everyone. Fortunately, we had morning and afternoon “tea,” so there was plenty of time for socializing.

Our day started with a visit to the local market, where one of our teachers, Phia Yang, introduced us to Lao fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, rice, seasonings, and sauces. I’ve been to enough Asian markets that the icky stuff doesn’t faze me. That said, there was definitely some icky stuff. Perhaps the ickiest was a wooden chair that was obviously used for butchering animals. It was dripping with blood and fleshy bits. I took a photo, but I’m guessing most people would rather not see it.

One funny moment happened when a rooster made a break for it. He was captive at a chicken stall one minute, and then he squawked and leapt over the counter, literally running for his life. The vendor threw a potato to knock the rooster off his feet, but he missed. Whew! Unfortunately, the vendor eventually caught the feisty fellow and tied him up in a plastic bag, presumably for a customer.

Phia Yang teaches us about Lao herbs.
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Learning about different kinds of rice.
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Back at the cooking class, we watched Phia Yang and another teacher, Leng Lee, demonstrate how to prepare several Lao dishes.
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Then we were on our own. Megan let me measure a few ingredients, and sometimes I even got to stir things around in the wok, but basically it was her show. We even had a code phrase for when I was getting in her way. She just said, “Why don’t you go take some pictures?”

Megan lets me measure some vinegar.
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The loony chef.
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By lunchtime, we had whipped up a tasty Luang Prabang salad and delicious Feu Khua (fried rice noodles with chicken and vegetables). Add a beer and friendly conversation with our classmates. Perfect!

In the afternoon, we did a less admirable job with Chicken Laap (minced chicken salad with herbs). We didn’t follow the recipe very carefully, so it turned out pretty dry and chewy. Our Oh Paedak (Lao pork casserole) was also less than impressive. It was supposed to be a soupy dish, but Megan and I couldn’t cope with the watery eggs, so we drained the liquid and served it on a plate instead of a bowl. Thanks, but no thanks. We hit the jackpot with Khua Maak Kheua Gap Moo (fried eggplant with pork). It was scrumptious! We also learned how to make sticky rice and Luang Prabang Chilli Paste, which was surprisingly sweet.

We left our cooking class with a cookbook and full tummies. Here’s the recipe for our favorite dish.
Khua Maak Kheua Gap Moo
Ingredients
60 grams pork (the recipe didn’t say what to do with the pork, so we chopped it in to bite-sized pieces)
3 large spring onions
1 Asian eggplant
2-3 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons oil
1. Cut the spring onion into 2-cm pieces. If the white part is large, cut it in half lengthwise.
2. Cut the eggplant into 3-cm pieces; then cut each piece in half lengthwise.
3. Crush the garlic in mortar or use a garlic press.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok, add the eggplant and stir fry until it begins to soften and turn a golden color.
5. Place the cooked eggplant in a dish and set aside.
6. Put the remaining oil into the wok with the crushed garlic, and stir until the garlic begins to change color.
7. Add the pork and keep stir frying until cooked.
8. Add the salt and sugar.
9. Keep stir frying and add the oyster sauce, onion, and cooked eggplant. Keep stir frying until the onions begin to soften.
10. Eat with sticky rice!

Luang Prabang Neighborhood

My sister and I have spent the last few days exploring Luang Prabang, Laos.

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I keep thinking to myself, “Dorothy, you’re not in Vientiane anymore.” Where is the omnipresent dust? Where are the deafening motorbikes and tuktuks? Where is the hustle and bustle? OK, there’s really not much “hustle and bustle” in Vientiane, but there’s even less here.

Our hotel is located in the Historic Temple Area, near the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers. So peaceful.
Here are some shots from our street. At times, it feels like we’re in Europe!
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Last night, we went to a restaurant recommended by several friends (and websites) – Tamarind. As I sipped a ginger and lemon cocktail, and Megan nursed a lime-lemongrass concoction, we listened to the monks chanting at the temple across the road. Here’s a little sample (don’t know why I was so shaky…). That bimbo you see coming out of the temple is a foreigner who had the brilliant idea of wearing her shorts to go watch the monks chant. Geez.

We ordered some appetizers and then … darkness. The electricity went out AGAIN. Seriously, the power has been off more than it’s been on since we got here. The locals just roll with it, so that’s all you can do. The restaurant staff melted the ends of small candles and stuck them directly on the tables and on the top of overturned glasses. We ate our delicious selection of Lao dips with sticky rice and roasted seaweed and chatted with a kind New Zealander who was traveling alone. Eventually, the lights came back on, but the tiny restaurant was packed with a couple large parties and we were having trouble getting the attention of the wait staff. We decided to move on.

Meg and I wandered through the quiet alleys of our neighborhood, perusing the dessert menus at several cafes. Like moths to a flame, we were drawn down a side street to a restaurant draped in twinkly lights with a small Lao band performing traditional music. The only patrons, we received a lot of attention at our outdoor table. The head waiter, in a starched coat two sizes too big, asked if we had already eaten and then encouraged us to come back some time for dinner. We ordered drinks, which were delivered by two more waiters. When Megan asked for another mug to share her tea with me, the confused waiter nodded and said, “cup” and then summoned two other waiters. They rushed over to hear our request and then scurried off to get the cup.

Before too long … the twinkly lights went dark. Yet another power outage!

Despite the lack of customers, the restaurant was soon ablaze in candles, and the band didn’t miss a beat. We enjoyed lingering with the marimba-ish melody wafting on the cool breeze. It would have been very romantic to be there with someone who wasn’t my sister. Walking back to our hotel, we stared up into the inky sky. Without city lights for competition, the stars glittered brightly and the moon lit our path.

Luang Prabang – Taking It Easy

I’m sitting at a coffee shop in Luang Prabang, Laos, sipping yet another refreshing “soda maak nao” (soda water with lime). I had hoped for a fruit shake, but the power’s out all over town. No electricity = no blender = no fruit shake. Bummer. Megan is getting her daily massage. Until my banged up legs heal a bit (mementos of rock climbing in Krabi), I’m taking a hiatus from aggressive rubdowns.
We arrived here Saturday evening and took a stroll around town. It’s hard to believe we’re in Laos. The French, who landed in Luang Prabang in 1887 and refused to leave till 1954, left quite an architectural mark. Since the city became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, many colonial villas, shops and offices have been converted to guesthouses, restaurants and art galleries. Located at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers and surrounded by mountains, the town takes on a quiet vibe. Tourists rise early to snap photos of the monks collecting alms in the chilly mist, so mornings are a bit lively along the main boulevards. Then the clouds burn off, and everyone seems to take a long afternoon nap to escape the scorching heat. Cool breezes prevail after sunset, and the town comes to life again but in a gentle way with twinkly lights dangling from the trees.

Our first night in Luang Prabang, we went out for a casual dinner. Megan tried her first “laap,” a popular Lao dish of minced chicken and herbs, eaten with sticky rice.

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The next morning, we followed part of a Lonely Planet walking tour, visiting a couple temples and then climbing up the 100-meter-high hill, Phu Si, to see the golden That Chomsi stupa at the top and to enjoy stunning views of the two rivers.

Hiking up the hill.
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We made it!
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A pretty little spot on top of the hill.
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Inside the little temple at the top.
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Buddha’s footprint. He must have been huge!
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Great views of the two rivers. Here’s the Mekong:
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And here’s the Khan:
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After lunch (and Meg’s daily massage), we jumped on a longboat for a little cruise on the Mekong. The riverbanks were bustling with village routines: ladies washing laundry, children chasing each other, farmers tending the crops and animals, workers building a boat, fishermen pulling in their nets, and monks strolling to and from the hillside temples. Around 5 p.m. it seemed everyone decided to take a bath. Mothers stood in waist-deep water to give the kids and themselves a good scrubbing. Men stripped down to their skivvies and waded in for a wash. Although other people on our boat took pictures, it seemed quite invasive. They must have been thinking, “Geez, can’t a person have a little privacy around here?” When the sun dropped behind the mountains, everything and everyone was bathed in a pinkish golden light. As our boat pulled back to shore at Luang Prabang, long lines of Lao people were waiting for the river taxi-boats.

Walking down to the river.
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Ready to go!
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Beautiful sunset.
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This is what Megan has seen the most on this trip.
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This is what happens when you ask Megan to take pictures. Sigh.
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People waiting to catch the river taxis.
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For dinner, we went to 3 Nagas, a posh open-air restaurant connected to a boutique hotel. The food was delicious, but even better was the ambience. I had made a reservation earlier in the day, so when we showed up, our outdoor table was marked by a banana leaf with my name written in silver ink. (The leaf said “Sharan,” but close enough, eh?) A tiny vase held a delicate white flower with spindly petals. White lights swayed in the trees, and vintage cars were parked on the street. It felt like a movie set.

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Today, we rented bikes and cycled to the outskirts of town. Twice we turned off the main road and pedaled till we ran out of asphalt. Once we left the historic area, the city looked very similar to Vientiane. People doing their jobs, living their lives.

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Back in town, we traded our mountain bikes for these cruisers and pedaled around the back alleys.
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After our ride, we stopped for a coffee but that’s when we learned of the power outage. We parked the bikes at the hotel and went for a stroll, and then Meg headed for her massage du jour. (Turns out the massage therapist was falling asleep, so Meg cut it short and met me at the café!) So, I’ll just suck down the rest of this soda with lime, and we’ll look for diversions that don’t require electricity…

Live and Let Dai

i seriously don’t have the energy to hold down two keys at the same time, so pardon the lack of capital letters…

Oh fine, in the interest of readability I’ll push myself that extra mile … even though I’ve already cycled about 50 today. Yes, you heard me right. I rode 50 miles today on my Chinese knock-off Giant bike.

If I had been traveling vertically instead of horizontally, I would have qualified at NASA to be an astronaut. If I had pedaled off the coast of Florida, I would have reached the Bahamas. If I were an elephant, that’s how far I would walk in one whole day.

None of that really matters or even makes sense, though. The point is that I rode my bike FIFTY freakin’ miles. It’s even more impressive to talk about kilometers:
So, how far did you ride today, Sharon?
Oh, around 80 kilometers, I suppose.
Wow! You must be quite a fantastic athlete! Whoops, you’re tipping over again. Atta girl, hold that body upright.

Since moving to Laos, I’ve heard legends of a mighty group of cyclists who rode from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, an uphill journey of nearly 400 kilometers. My friend, Whetu, and I embraced the abstract concept of this challenge and began “training.”

We take an early morning spin around the city three times a week … except when one of us had a bit too much to drink the night before and/or didn’t get a good night’s sleep and/or had the sniffles and/or couldn’t bear to leave the snuggly comfort of sleep. In such cases, the other person always feels a wee bit of guilty relief to get the text message: “Sorry no ride today. See ya at school.” More often than not, our stick-to-it-iveness has surprised even ourselves.

Earlier this week, we officially joined Team Dai (pronounced “die” unfortunately). One of the organizers explained: “The team name means ‘Can do’… as in ‘anything,’ referring to the ability for a team of committed energetic people to achieve amazing things that they’d never dream of individually.”

This year, Team Dai will ride to Phonsavan, about 400 kilometers northeast of Vientiane, and home of the mysterious Plain of Jars.

Today was the team’s first Saturday training ride. I didn’t sleep well last night, tossing and turning with anxiety that (a) my alarm wouldn’t go off, (b) Whetu and I wouldn’t be able to find the group at the meeting place, (c) Whetu and I WOULD find the group and they’d all be comparing notes on their most recent endurance cycling events, or (d) they would ride too fast, and I’d be left in the dust.

We both have punctuality issues, so we showed up at the Patuxai parking lot at 6:10 for the 6:30 a.m. ride. We looked for other potential Team Dai members but saw only men walking backwards, a guy riding in circles on an old beat-up bike with a Laos flag, young people doing stomach crunches on the park benches, and barefoot children who couldn’t peel their eyes off us.

Finally about a dozen other riders showed up. The team’s training coordinator, Nick, gave us a primer on hand signals and riding etiquette and then explained the day’s route. We were heading out to the Friendship Bridge and then doubling back, taking a loop around the outskirts of Vientiane and then pedaling back into the heart of town for breakfast at a popular café.

The group maintained a steady but do-able pace, and I enjoyed getting to know this diverse bunch of expats. The riders I met were from England, Luxembourg, Germany, Sweden, Australia, and France, and they all had such interesting stories about their work and travels in Laos. Chatting with them made time pass quickly, and soon we were heading back towards town.

Just as my tummy started rumbling in anticipation of hot thick coffee and fried eggs, Nick turned back and shouted, “Do you guys want to keep riding?” I nearly toppled off my gel seat when the group shouted, “Sure!” So we turned AWAY from town. I refused to let dangerously low blood sugar and ruptured hamstrings quash my enthusiasm, so I stuck with the pack even as a few others veered off for home. I reluctantly waved good-bye to Whetu, who had a flight to catch.

Eventually, the only thing that kept me going was a meditative mantra: Breakfast, breakfast, breakfast, coffee, coffee, coffee … When we pulled up to the restaurant, there were only six of us left. They seemed unfazed by today’s accomplishment, but I refuse to diminish what my flabby body did. That 3-day challenge no longer seems impossible (daunting … unpleasant … kind of insane, really, but not impossible).

In case you missed it the first few times, I rode my bicycle for 50 MILES!!!

VIS Christmas Party

Saturday night, we celebrated Christmas with our Vientiane International School friends at The Jukebox, an open-air pub owned by an American teacher and his Lao wife. I served on the organizing committee, but I didn’t do much (other than work with another teacher to compile a music playlist).

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Everything was fabulous! Lovely decorations, delicious food, a bit of dancing, and lots of fun conversations. The highlight may have been Santa Claus, the school’s tae kwondo instructor, who passed out presents and thoroughly entertained us.

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Mooning the Night for SEA Games Soccer

The Southeast Asian Games have taken over Vientiane, but it seems you have to be someone or know someone to get tickets. Last week, I begged my Lao language teacher (who is a third-grade teaching assistant at VIS) to let me tag along with her to the Laos-Singapore soccer match. The next morning, she stopped by my classroom to give me a T-shirt that said “Cheer for Laos!” in Lao. Very cool. We agreed to meet at the staff lounge at 4 p.m. to catch our ride to the stadium.

You may be thinking, “YOU wanted to go to a soccer match?” I know, I know, I’m the least sporty person ever. I was in it for the cultural experience.

One of the SEA Games mascots, Champa, playing soccer. He’s so cute! The other mascot, Champi, is a sporty girl elephant.
SEA Games Mascot

When I showed up at the staff lounge wearing my T-shirt, Mai was speaking Lao on her mobile phone. My language skills are limited to asking prices of bananas and telling time, so I couldn’t follow her conversation, but she didn’t look too stressed. When she got off the phone, she said, “We have a problem. We don’t have tickets.” She hadn’t told the other Lao girls who were coming, including the one who was on her way to give us a ride.
The co-dependent, type A, intense Sharon who moved to Laos in August would have gotten a bit upset. After all, Mai had said she could get tickets. However, Laos has a mellowing effect. Everything moves a little slower with a lot less urgency. I consciously decided to enjoy the evening, regardless of how it turned out.

Mai and me looking quite nonplussed that we don’t have tickets to the match.
No tickets?

Mai explained that her friend’s mom’s friends, who were supposed to buy the tickets for us, came up empty handed. They told her the tickets were sold out. Mai then took another call from a friend who was out at the stadium. She told us not to bother driving out there as nobody was selling tickets, not even scalpers. Weird. Before I realized it, the school’s receptionist was calling a woman who has two kids in our school and often substitute teaches. Her husband works for Tigo, a mobile phone company and SEA Games sponsor. She informed us that her husband was quite frustrated because, for some unknown reason, government officials had confiscated all the tickets. The plot thickens.

Mai broke the news to Ton, a teaching assistant who had also hoped to attend the match. The three of us walked dejectedly out to the school gate to meet another friend of Mai’s. Keo is a lovely little wisp of a woman who writes for the Vientiane Times. Her brother pulled his Toyota truck up to the school gate, and we all piled in. Mai rattled off some Lao, which again didn’t seem to involve fruit or numbers, so I didn’t understand it.

Keo’s brother drove us to a market, where we found an unmanned SEA Games ticket counter and shopkeepers who just shrugged their shoulders when we said we were looking for soccer tickets. As we pondered what to do next, Mai and Ton got distracted by street food. They bought grilled beef-and-veggie kebabs and some absolutely delicious lettuce-wrapped snack, neither of which I would have dared to try on my own. Mai said the lettuce wrap is very time-consuming to make and involves cooking sticky rice, leaving it outside to dry in the sun for a day and then cooking it again. Kinda glad I didn’t know that before I ate it.

Here we are hanging out at the market, from left: Mai, Keo, Ton and me (the gigantic white Amazon woman).
On a Ticket Quest

Nobody selling tickets!
Nobody at the Ticket Sales Counter

Mmmm… street food!
Mmm... kebabs!

More Yummy Street Food

Back in the truck, we all agreed it was hopeless to go to the stadium. Instead we drove to a Mekong-side restaurant called Moon the Night to watch the match on the big-screen TV.

Moon the Night - hee hee

I asked the girls if they knew the meaning of “moon” as a verb. They were quite surprised to hear the definition, and they made me use it in sentences for different situations. “Hey, that guy is mooning me out his car window,” I said. “Or maybe you’re in your university dorm room and you see some drunk friends down on the street, so you moon them.” Why did I feel compelled to start this discussion? It only went downhill from there.

The match was arguably the most boring soccer I’d ever seen. Final score: 0-0. Nevertheless, I had a great time getting to know my new Lao friends. We finished off our street food and then ordered from the menu. Mai told the waiter to go easy on the chili, but I still had to drink a liter of Beer Lao to put out the fire on my tongue.

Watching the Match

Wat ‘O’ the Week – Wat Sithan Neua

I’m cheating a little bit with this Wat ‘O’ the Week post. I actually visited this temple on the same day I went to Wat Phia Wat with Catherine.
We had hoped to visit with a monk she knew here, but unfortunately, we were told that he had gone to the States to study for a year.
Wat Sithan Neua is tucked in a back alley just a block from the Mekong River. The monks were hard at work landscaping the temple grounds.

Sithan Neua Monks Working

We found a monk who spoke a little English and asked him about the temple’s “sim” (ordination hall). He said it was about 70 years old, but he refused to indulge our request to unlock it.

Wat Sithan Neua's Sim

The small sim featured muted colors and delicate designs, but the building was in serious disrepair. A peek through the crack in the ornate front door revealed restoration work underway inside.

Sithan Neua Sim Detail

Sithan Neua Sim Detail

Sithan Neua Sim Door

A flashier new addition to the temple stood nearby with rickety scaffolding rising out of piles of sand and up to bright red and gold paintings. The old sim literally paled in comparison.

Scaffolding!

Conjuring Up Christmas One Cookie at a Time

At my bridal shower 17 years ago (!), Tony’s mom gave me a book of recipes for some of his favorite dishes. I nearly collapsed with laughter, barely able to blurt out, “Oh, you don’t really expect me to cook for this man?!”
Actually, I did try to cook for him in those early days, but we both felt a great sense of relief when Tony patiently wiped away my tears of exasperation and gently released my grip from the pot full of unidentifiable burnt crustiness. We knew the kitchen was no place for me. Since then, I’ve whipped up the occasional fried eggs or Campbell’s Soup Infused Casserole, and I do make good use of the George Foreman Grill. Otherwise, the kitchen is Tony’s domain.

However, there is one recipe from Catherene Anne that makes an appearance every Christmas: Peanut Butter Blossoms. I know these are common cookies and probably don’t seem very exciting to most people, but for Tony and me, they fill the house with the smell of Christmas and remind us of his mother, who was truly a brilliant cook.
So there we were – in Laos, recipe in hand, on the hunt for very un-Lao ingredients. Luckily, we live in Vientiane, a capital city with embassies from around the world and markets happy to cater to the expats who work here. At the little mini-mart across the street from our house, we found the easy items: white sugar, butter, flour (there were three kinds, all labeled in Lao, so I just closed my eyes and picked one), milk, eggs, and surprisingly, vanilla. I almost bought a bag of MSG, mistaking it for sugar, and fortunately I noticed the small graphic of a shrimp on a bag of tempura breading before using it as flour. Fishy peanut butter cookies? Hmmm … that might be popular here…
Tony rode the motorbike to another swankier shop to get the rest of the ingredients. There were no Hershey’s Kisses to be found, so he bought a couple bags of Hershey’s Nuggets. In all, one batch of cookies cost us around $50.

Saturday morning, I plugged in the iPod and turned on some holiday tunes while I searched in the kitchen for bowls, spatulas, cookie sheets and the rest of the paraphernalia. (When you don’t visit the kitchen very often, it’s rather frustrating to suddenly take on a big project such as this.) I soon found that Daeng had scrubbed all the Teflon off my cookie sheet, but no worries, I used a lasagna pan instead. Mixing flour into the peanut butter mixture is back-breaking work, and the fact that our kitchen was designed for midgets started to grate on my nerves. The counters come to my upper thighs, so I nearly had to double over to hold the mixing bowl. The Christmas songs also began to irritate me after just a couple minutes. They felt out of place in this tropical weather. I switched to some soothing classical stuff. I needed soothing.

Finally, I had a pan full of dough balls ready to pop in the oven. Except I didn’t know how to turn on the oven. I summoned Tony, who solved the mystery. He discovered our oven has a knob with two settings: Off and Max.

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Not one to deviate from a recipe, I pulled out the first pan after exactly 10 minutes and smushed a Nugget in the center of each ball. As I always tell my students, we must make mistakes or we’ll never learn. I learned that 10 minutes wasn’t long enough, and a whole Nugget is a whole lotta chocolate. I left the rest of the cookies in for 15 minutes and used half a Nugget on each one. Perfect! Well, perfect enough.

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The cookies met with resounding approval (if not some skepticism over who baked them) at our school’s Christmas party last night, and even the Lao staff enjoyed them. As Tony said this morning after gorging on the few remaining cookies, “I feel like Courtney Love, and Peanut Butter Blossoms are heroin.”
Here is Catherene Anne’s recipe. Enjoy!
Peanut Butter Blossoms
1 cup sugar
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 cup butter
1 cup creamy peanut butter
2 eggs
¼ cup milk
2 tsp vanilla
3 ½ cups flour
2 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
2 packages Hershey’s Kisses
Pre-heat oven to 375°F, assuming you are lucky enough to have an oven that tells you the temperature.
1. Mix together sugars, butter and peanut butter.
2. Fold in milk, eggs and vanilla.
3. Add flour, baking soda and salt.
4. Roll into small balls. Roll the balls in sugar.
5. Bake on an ungreased cookie sheet (or lasagna pan) for 10 minutes.
6. Unwrap Kisses while cookies are baking.
7. As soon as cookies come out of the oven, put a kiss in the center of each one.
Yum!

There’s a Light at the End of the Semester

As a teacher of English to kids who don’t speak English, I spend much of my time waving around flashcards, overenunciating vocabulary words, leading youngsters through silly songs with repetitive lyrics and actions, and contorting my face and body in ways that help communicate the mysterious language.

I can’t say the word “book” without automatically putting my hands together as in prayer and then opening them up to read the story. I can’t talk about an abstract concept without automatically reaching for a marker to sketch a clarifying illustration on the board.

On a good day, a student will poke me, point out the window, and say, “Sun!”
“Yes, it’s a beautiful sunny day!” I’ll exclaim. “Is it raining today? Nooooo! Is it snowing? Nooooo! It’s sunny! Good job! Did everyone hear Jenny tell us about the weather? She said it’s sunny! Super!”
On a bad day, I’ll ask, “How’s the weather today?” Some poor kid will answer, “Sun!” and then I might possibly have a total meltdown.
“No! We don’t say the weather is SUN! We say ‘It’s sunny!’ I have told you that a million freakin’ times! ‘Sun’ is a noun. ‘Sunny’ is an adjective. Geez, have I taught you NOTHING?!”

Of course, I don’t really say that stuff out loud. But I do think it. A lot. Especially in that first semester of the school year when progress … seems … so … slow.

I just get impatient. I want them to hurry up and learn English so they can change their social outcast status, participate in class discussions and milk every drop of discovery that school has to offer them. Language researchers have repeatedly found that fluency might elude a student for up to seven years, and it’s totally normal for a child to experience a lengthy “silent period,” during which he or she won’t utter a single English syllable. Every so often in those first few months of the school year, I temporarily reject research and its accompanying logic, and I feel compelled to throw a little mental temper tantrum at the mind-numbing pace of language acquisition.

Right about now, however, as the first semester is winding down, there’s a sudden dearth of those cerebral hissy fits. Instead, I can’t help but notice how terribly brilliant all my students are! My eyes, more often than not, widen in admiration rather than roll in frustration when a child answers a question or shares an idea. Sometimes I even find myself asking a question with my back turned to the group, and students actually ANSWER – even though they can’t see my facial expressions, read my lips or take cues from a gesture. It’s like the English Fairy waved her magic wand, sprinkling comprehension dust over all their little heads.

Today, I was teaching some words for food and drinks to a group of English beginners. When I held up the flashcard for coffee, I said, “I like drinking coffee!” Then I grasped the flashcard in a passionate embrace and said, “I LOVE drinking coffee!” Fidgety giggles ensued.
“Do YOU like drinking coffee?” I asked.
Correct answers included (a) I like drinking coffee, (b) I don’t like drinking coffee, or (c) a simple thumbs up or thumbs down to show understanding. To my surprise, one excruciatingly shy second grader popped out of her seat and said, “I don’t like drinking coffee, but my mother and father like drinking coffee.” She didn’t pronounce any ending sounds, but it didn’t matter. She spoke!
At that moment, I heard angels singing and I couldn’t stop myself from giving her a big weepy hug. (Yes, I know I could get arrested for that in America, but such things are still OK in the holistic international teaching world.)

Another end-of-semester triumph occurred in a first-grade classroom earlier this week. I was providing “in-class support” during Miss Jill’s writing lesson, so I sat with a little Vietnamese boy who didn’t speak a lick of English four months ago. First, he drew a picture filled with aggression, complete with ninja warriors and weapons of mass destruction. Next, he told me what was in the picture: good boy, bad boy, fighting, shooting. He didn’t know the words for “tank” or “bullets” or “strong,” so I explained them and helped to label his picture.

Labeled Picture

Then he told me the story, and I dictated it back, showing him how to link together the “sight words” he already knew with the labeled picture so he could write his exciting action story.
And he did. Here it is.

Grade 1 Student Writing

While we worked, I felt a pang of guilt for teaching this child the vocabulary of violence. On the other hand, who am I to deprive a little boy from writing about what interests him most? Last year, visiting author Ralph Fletcher told our Shanghai American School staff that boys WILL write violent stories, and teachers must give them some artistic freedom and validation of their ideas. I agree.

Even more than Ralph Fletcher’s approval, though, I found reassurance in the big smile that stretched across my student’s face as he read his own writing out loud over and over again.

In that smile, I also found a little reminder of why I love teaching English as a Second Language: Sure, the school year – especially the first semester – is filled with moments of agonizing self-doubt and sleepless nights as I stress about children spending their days bombarded by meaningless sounds and texts. Lucky for me, I get to collaborate with talented classroom teachers, who create a safe, supportive, language-rich environment for those English learners. And best of all, I get to witness the proud grins when those sounds suddenly make sense, those texts reveal facts and fairy tales, and that alphabet offers the power – real POWER – to share thoughts, experiences and make-believe with other people who also understand this crazy language!