Category Archives: Daily Life

Staycation on the Chao Phraya River

Right after school on Friday, Tony and I left our respective neighborhoods to meet up for a staycation at a boutique hotel on the Phrao Chaya River in the heart of Bangkok. Although we technically live in the city, we each spent two hours in a taxi to reach the Amdaeng hotel.

We dropped our bags and immediately headed back out to explore Awakening Bangkok, an annual light and digital art festival. According to the Time Out website, this year’s festival in Old Town featured the theme, “Time Passage,” emphasizing how the labyrinth of streets and canals has met transportation needs for two centuries.

Our guide for the evening was Nicholas with the Bangkok chapter of Internations, a global organization for expats. Our group comprised about 15 people from around the world. It was fun to catch up with Claire, whom we had met at a previous event, and to get to know new faces. Nicholas led us to the various installations, sharing fascinating tidbits about Thai history and the temples, bridges, canals, and other sites we passed along the way.

Tony and I stuck with the group to visit about half the 29 installations before we petered out. Friday nights are rough for teachers! We found a tiny Thai-Mexican fusion restaurant nearby and enjoyed delicious cocktails and food with another member of the group. Finally, we called a taxi and headed back to our lovely riverside oasis.

The next morning, we took time to appreciate the hotel and its setting. I loved reading on our fourth-floor balcony, overlooking the busy river. The brick-red paint, tile floors, antique furniture, and clawfoot tub in our room contrasted a bit with the concrete floor of the oversized modern shower stall and exposed HVAC fittings of the high ceilings. It felt like Victorian Era meets Industrial Chic. The steep narrow stairway was lined with an ornate wrought-iron railing, and the reception area featured gorgeous tiled floors, a long leather couch, and a wall of partially desilvered mirrors.

Look at these gorgeous floor tiles!

Morning view from our balcony.

After a hearty riverside breakfast, we headed out for a morning of art and culture. Transportation took us a minute to figure out. The ferry to the other side of the river didn’t operate on Saturdays, so we started walking. After about 45 sweaty minutes, we hopped in a cab.

We had toured the Jim Thompson House before, maybe 20 years ago? Tony was especially curious to see it again. The attraction features the home and art collection of the late James H.W. Thompson, an American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry in the 1960s. He was first introduced to Thailand while serving in the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), the forerunner to the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). He later shifted gears and took an interest in the Thai silk trade, creating dramatic color combinations that found fame in the movie, “The King and I.” In 1967, he mysteriously disappeared while on a visit to the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia.

In addition to his silk legacy, Thompson is also known for the construction of his unusual home. In 1958, he purchased, moved, and reassembled several traditional teak houses, which sit on stilts. Our guide explained that a traditional teak home wouldn’t have anything on the first floor because that was where the Thai family would cook or keep animals and vehicles. To enter the home, they would climb an exterior staircase or ladder. Thompson went a little rogue by designing an entryway with a checkerboard floor and interior staircase. He also linked the houses together to comprise a large living room, smaller dining room, kitchen, study, and two bedrooms, all linked by a long hallway.

After moving into the house in 1959, Thompson played host to Western celebrities and politicians, showing off his extensive collection of Asian art. You can read more about the history at the Jim Thompson House website.

I liked the porcelain cat chamber pot in the guest room and the “mouse house” in the master bedroom. Apparently, this form of entertainment involved watching live mice scamper about, much like a hamster habitrail, I suppose.

It was a short walk to the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). I hadn’t done my research, so we didn’t make good use of our time in the center. I think we missed several exhibits. We’ll have to go back!

That evening, we took the metro to The Deck, a fun bar where Tony’s school was holding its Christmas party for staff. I had heard so much about his friends and colleagues; it was great to finally meet them. Back at our hotel later that night, we hung out on our balcony for a while, watching tugboats pull huge barges while party boats full of revelers cruised by.

We went our separate ways in the morning. Back to reality. Counting down to our next school break. Two weeks!

Loy Krathong Festival comes to Perfect Place

Over the years, I’ve learned mindfulness techniques to help quiet my anxious mind. One involves putting intrusive thoughts into imaginary little boats that float away down a river, allowing me to focus on my breath and find peace. Naturally, I couldn’t resist participating in Thailand’s Loy Krathong festival, which takes that practice and makes it real. Thai people drop actual little boats into the water to both cast off negative energy and send gratitude to various water gods.

The festival takes place in the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar on a night with a full moon, which was Monday of this week. Opportunities abounded throughout Bangkok, a city criss-crossed with large and small waterways. I opted to visit the Perfect Place lake, just minutes from my house.

My friend, Melissa, and I scootered to our neighborhood’s festival, where food vendors lined the street next to the small lake. Thai families had spread out picnic blankets, and children ran around playing the myriad games on offer. Many festival-goers dressed in traditional Thai clothing of brightly colored silk. Twinkly lights illuminated the lakefront, and speakers played upbeat music. The vibe was joyful and celebratory.

Loy means “to float,” and a krathong is a small, floating religious offering. Several booths offered krathongs, including some made from fish food and others crafted from natural materials. Artisans created krathongs on site, weaving banana leaves and pinning them to a base made from a slice of banana tree trunk before adding flowers, candles, and incense sticks.

Melissa and I bought banana leaf krathongs and wandered along the lakefront to find a good place for setting sail. We greeted many friends, colleagues, and students, who were clearly enjoying the special event and cool evening temperatures.

Finally, we met up with another friend, Jane, whose husband had thought to bring a lighter. Together we knelt on the pavement, lit our candles and incense sticks, and bent down to drop our krathongs in the lake. Melissa’s promptly tipped over, which gave us a good laugh. Jane’s and mine stayed upright, but they didn’t really go anywhere.

Ideally, you would lower your krathong into the water, and it would float away dramatically into the distance until it disappeared from sight. Unfortunately, the gentle breeze at our community lake pushed all the krathongs right back to the shore, so the effect was rather anticlimactic.

The whole time, I was having flashbacks to my first Loy Krathong. While living in Laos 13 years ago, I joined some friends for Vientiane’s celebration, called Loi Ka Thong. Same basic premise, but yowza, what a different experience. Check it out.

There’s a growing controversy over whether this festival should continue as is. It’s a bit ironic to offer blessings to the river gods and ask forgiveness for acts that pollute the water while at the same time clogging waterways with garbage. Even though most of the krathongs feature biodegradable materials these days, there are simply too many. According to the Thailand Foundation website:

As concerns about environmental conservation rise, many became aware problems posed by certain aspects of the festival. Namely, the over-floating of krathongs in certain area can, ironically, lead to polluting issues. Though the organic materials used to make krathongs can decompose naturally, oversaturation can cause problems such as stench and rot. Cleaning up after the festival is a laborious task undertaken by the government and communities living around water ways each year.

As an eco-warrior, I’m torn. I strongly advocate reducing our consumption in general, but I can’t deny the power of this lovely celebration. I’ve read about some creative solutions such as digital krathongs controlled by a smart phone and projected on the water. However, tradition dies hard. I’m curious to see how Thailand addresses this issue in the future.

Sunday Cycling At Bang Krachao

The Chao Phraya River, which bisects Bangkok, makes a little loop in the southern part of the city, creating an urban oasis of mangrove forests and jungle perfect for exploring by bicycle. The “island” called Bang Krachao features bike paths, parks, a market, coffee shops, and other attractions for people seeking to escape the manic pace of Bangkok.

I recently joined Internations, a global organization that connects expats for social events and other opportunities. One of the Internations groups had scheduled a visit to Bang Krachao, so Tony and I tagged along yesterday afternoon.

Seventeen of us met at the Bang Na metro stop, where we all piled into a songtaew, a type of open-air truck taxi, for the ride to the pier. There, we caught a ferry and sailed across the river to Bang Krachao. Just a short walk from the ferry landing were several bike rentals, where we hopped on rickety well-used bikes and took off.

For some of the ride, we stayed in the bike lane on the main road, but other times we rode into the jungle on elevated concrete or wooden paths. Oftentimes, the narrow path lacked railings on one or both sides, which triggered some messed-up mind games. I mean, I know I can ride a bike in a straight line, but throw in the threat of plunging into a murky canal (likely full of snakes and monitor lizards) and suddenly I tense up, wobble the handlebars back and forth, and have to keep putting down a foot to stabilize myself. We were also pedaling very slowly and close together, adding to my stress and balance concerns.

Riding through the jungle areas, it was easy to forget the heart of Bangkok was just a stone’s throw away. The vegetation was lush and dense, and sounds of nature filled the air. In the village areas, it was fun to see a slice of life different from our everyday reality. People smiled at us and said hello. Kids waved. Roosters crowed, and ducks frolicked in puddles. One guy was taking a shower with his garden hose. Traffic got a little hectic for a bit.

Unfortunately, the insane amount of plastic waste dumped in the waterways served as a bleak reality check. Known as the green lung of Bangkok, Bang Krachao fights the same battles as the rest of the city when it comes to balancing nature and humanity.

We paused at a coffee shop for a short break, and I enjoyed chatting with others in the group. I met a scientist who writes about honeybees, a book editor, a businesswoman with a multinational company, a semi-retired lady, and more. In our international education bubble, it’s so rare that we talk to people who aren’t teachers.

At the end of the ride, the group gathered at a remote little restaurant for dinner, but a few of us opted to head back to town rather than risk riding in the dark without headlamps. We found our way to the pier, returned the bikes, and caught the ferry. All very easy!

Bangkok Vegetarian Festival Delivers

I love a food festival, but as a vegetarian, I usually face limited options. Not this week! My own little neighborhood and Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown celebrated the nine-day Tesagan Gin Je Festival, an annual event that honors the Taoist Nine Emperor Gods with a strict vegan diet.

The festival occurs annually during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar. This year’s event wraps up today. According to the Thailand Now website:

The Thai Vegetarian Festival is believed to have originated in Phuket, specifically the district of Kathu. The origin story begins in 1825, when a Chinese opera troupe visited the Andaman Pearl, and a few members fell hopelessly ill. 

In a desperate attempt to protect its members, the rest of the group maintained an exclusively vegan diet out of respect to the Nine Emperor Gods of Taoism, thought to have the power to heal illnesses. Whether by coincidence or divine veganism, the Chinese opera troupe recovered and the rest is history.

As the story spread, so did the belief that the Nine Emperor Gods visit earth to bless people during this festival. The rest of the year, they take their places as stars in the Big Dipper constellation.

During the festival, street vendors and restaurants hang yellow flags to indicate their vegetarian offerings. My first taste of the festival occurred Thursday in the neighborhood near my house. My Thai friend, Oon, took me to a Chinese temple, where volunteers were serving free vegetarian food three times a day.

We took a moment to light incense at the big golden Buddha, his round tummy making him distinctively Chinese compared to the slender Thai Buddha. Then Oon collected several bowls of food and brought them to me at a table. I had low expectations, considering this food was produced assembly line style. However, everything was delicious! I don’t really know what I ate other than noodles, veggies, rice, spicy papaya salad, and some tasty soup. After eating, we washed our own dishes, which seemed only fair.

I dropped a few baht in the donation box, chatted a bit with temple volunteers, and posed for a few photos. People seemed surprised that I eat vegetarian all the time. Local Buddhists generally go veg only on “Thai Buddhist Day” once a week.

On our way out, Oon grabbed a bag of snacks from a street vendor displaying the yellow flag. The snacks looked like deep-fried vegetable fritters, and they came with a lip-smacking sauce.

Eating unfamiliar food can be a stressful experience, so it’s always nice to have a person in the know to lead the way. Was I ready to face an even bigger food festival without Oon? There was only one way to find out.

Tony and I took the metro to Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, Saturday afternoon and emerged into throngs of tourists. We wandered a bit until we came across hundreds of food stalls adorned with yellow flags. Faced with such a plethora of options, I couldn’t make any decisions. Plus we were melting in the heat. We paused to check out a temple and a shrine, and then finally I felt ready to commit.

We purchased some food and then tucked behind the vendors’ stalls, where tables and stools were set up for diners. Everything was fantastic, although our mouths nearly caught fire from Tony’s mystery dish.

We decided to pop into a restaurant to put our mouth fires out with some cold beer. The air conditioning was divine, so we ended up ordering dim sum as well. Seemed a little indulgent considering all the fabulous festival food just beyond the door, but the AC won out.

As we headed back out to the street, we felt a few rain drops, and we had just flagged down a reluctant taxi driver when the deluge started. We got out of there in the nick of time, although we still wondered whether we’d make it home. The driver sighed and groaned and complained for almost an hour, understandably, as he slowly navigated through flooded streets and near zero visibility.

What a relief to get home with a full heart and a fuller belly.

Catching up – life’s bits and bobs

Here are a few little stories that escaped mention in the last month or so.

Hotel Bash

At my school’s “Welcome Back Party,” we enjoyed a fabulous buffet (with heaps of delicious vegetarian options!) and hit the dancefloor to boogie on down. Tony rode the metro to the Novotel to join the festivities and meet some of my new colleagues. I didn’t take any good shots inside the ballroom, but there’s never a balloon shortage here for posing.

Belgian Bliss

A couple of weeks later, Tony and I headed to Belga, a dreamy rooftop restaurant at the Sofitel Hotel. The food gave me goosebumps, and the view wasn’t half bad either.

Zumba

Several of us get together on Mondays after school for Zumba, offered by one of the teachers for free. With two left feet, I’m quite pathetic, but I was slowly starting to learn some of the moves. Then an injury forced me to take a break. What kind of injury? Well, you won’t feel sorry for me … I was lying on my back getting a Thai massage when the lady bent my left leg and rotated it inward. She pushed down hard on my knee, and I knew right away that she had done some damage. I’ve been nursing it for a few weeks now, and I think I’m ready to Zumba again!

Pool Party

A monitor lizard recently took a dip in our school pool moments before a first-grade class was due for their swimming lesson. Apparently, there are two of these guys who live under the boarding dormitory. I like to imagine they head out for a stroll every evening after the students have gone to bed, wrapping up their night with a moonlight swim.

Fall Fest

My friend, Sara, is all about community. So I wasn’t surprised that she started a committee here to organize community events and activities. The group’s name, RISidents, stems from the abbreviation for our school: Ruamrudee International School. On Sept. 30, the RISidents staged an epic event called Fall Fest. Designed to evoke cozy feelings of a crisp autumn evening in mid-America (despite it being rainy season here with temps in the 80s), Fall Fest featured live music, a bouncy castle, a beer garden, food vendors, a plethora of decorations in an autumnal color palette, and more. I coordinated some of the children’s games, and I think the kids had fun. Here, Tony and I toss fake leaves in the air at the photo booth.

Speaking of rainy season …

After committing to a scooter rental for the next year, I’ve been a little apprehensive about all this rain. Fortunately, it tends to hold off until after I get home from school. But not always. Twice in the last week, I drove to school in full rain gear with my work clothes in my backpack. My worst rain encounter, however, occurred after chaperoning the middle school dance. When I scooted out of the parking lot, a fine mist was sprinkling from the sky. I figured it wasn’t worth stopping to get my rain coat out of my bag. Within moments, the clouds erupted. By the time I pulled into my driveway, a rainwater river was pouring down the back of my pants. Tony was waiting for me, and we both had a good laugh.

And now we’re all caught up! Stay tuned for stories about our October break …

“Carpet” provides bright spot in vanilla room

Over the years, Tony and I have amassed an impressive collection of stuff from around the world. However, I am determined not to surround myself with “stuff,” so I have intentionally purged until all that remains is meaningful in some way. There’s still a lot left, but each item has a story to tell. Unfortunately, my contract in Thailand didn’t include a shipping allowance, so those stories have been silenced and stashed at a storage facility in Florida.

Here in Bangkok, I stare at cream-colored wallpaper, beige furniture, neutral fixtures, and an off-white tile floor. It’s killing me to know our storage unit is bursting with rich Anatolian carpets, riotously colorful Indian artwork, and stunning carved furniture from China. Not wanting to buy more stuff, I have decided to wait one year in this blandness to make sure I want to stay in Thailand long enough to justify shipping over some of our most beloved belongings.

In the meantime, I couldn’t resist purchasing one carpet to brighten up my living room. Thailand has an Amazon-ish online shopping site called Lazada, where I got lost in a sea of carpets, most of which were either cheap and hideous or attractive and pricey. I finally found one that seemed happy and affordable, so I dropped it in my virtual cart. I’ve been looking forward to rolling out a splash of color and sinking my toes into the pile.

When I got home from school the other day, a small packet was waiting at the door. I couldn’t imagine what it could be. Turns out it was my “carpet.” More of a mat really. A mat with a loud stamped-on pattern.

I thought about returning it, but honestly, I just couldn’t navigate one more unfamiliar thing. Instead, I decided to laugh about another lesson learned and to appreciate this cheesy, cheery addition to my home.

Sooooo many sleepless nights – finally, sleep study reveals root of insomnia

When we first got to Bangkok, jet lag kicked me in the teeth. I kept waiting for my body to adjust to Thailand time, but the anguish ensued. Finally, there was no denying this was not your ordinary jetlag. Something else was wrong.

After bloodwork, ultrasounds, and other tests found no clinical reason for my insomnia, I sought help from a sleep specialist. Suspecting sleep apnea, he ordered a sleep study, which I did Friday night.

Sidebar: I was sitting at a nail salon Thursday afternoon, preparing for a mani-pedi when the hospital called to make sure I didn’t polish my nails before the sleep study. I told them I was literally just about to get my nails painted, and they said, “Well, just leave one fingernail clean.” The nail technician told me to return next week, and she’d finish the job. The hospital also told me I had to wash my hair but couldn’t use conditioner. So many mysteries! The nail salon posted my friend and me on their Facebook page. Note the wrong preposition. Grammar matters, friends!

Friday after school, I grabbed a taxi to meet Tony for a nice dinner before my appointment.

Faithful readers will know my affinity for Bumrungrad International Hospital. I’m so grateful for the world-class care and customer service.

Off to my room.

My lovely nurse, Julaluk, told me she had worked here for 10 years (even though she looked about 20 years old), and she clearly knew her way around the complicated world of preparing me for the night. As she stuck sensors all over my head, I suddenly understood why conditioner might render my hair too slippery for this procedure. And when she strapped a sensor to my index finger to monitor oxygen absorption, the need for an unpainted fingernail made sense. Mysteries solved!

Here’s what I looked like when she finally finished, along with a key to explain all the gear.

A: EEG measured the state of my sleep

B: measured eye movements to determine when I entered REM sleep

C: monitored whether I was grinding my teeth

D: measured airflow through my nose

E: measured oxygen saturation in my body

F: monitored whether I was snoring

G: belts measured chest and abdominal movement

H: sensors under my shirt monitored my heart rate

I: monitored muscle contractions in my legs

J: the machine collecting all the data, which stayed in bed with me all night and hung from my shoulder when I got up to use the bathroom

After serving me breakfast in the morning, Julaluk sent me off to meet with Dr. Sikawat Thanaviratananich. (Whew! Thai names are no joke.)

Dr. T spoke perfect English and explained that I have severe obstructive sleep apnea. He had previously shown me images online to clarify that obstructive sleep apnea occurs when the tongue, muscles, or other tissues block the upper airway, preventing the intake of adequate oxygen. When these episodes happen, the brain experiences a microarousal to trigger breathing again.

Most people have fewer than 5 microarousals per hour while sleeping. Last night’s sleep test found I experience about 39 per hour. Not cool. That explains why I never feel rested, Dr. T said.

He showed me a readout that shows a line with crests and dips, indicating I was taking normal breaths. Then suddenly the line goes almost flat for more than 30 seconds, suggesting I stopped breathing. Another blip shows my brain experiencing a microarousal, followed by a dramatic swing up in the breathing line. “See how you took a deep breath to compensate,” Dr. T explained.

Unfortunately, the only treatment at this time for severe obstructive sleep apnea is the use of a CPAP (continuous positive airway pressure) machine. I tried on three different versions last night.

“Goldilocks – the CPAP Edition”

The first one had the least invasive mask and blew air directly into my nostrils. However, it was nearly impossible to exhale without opening my mouth, which apparently is a no-no. The second one featured a mask that covered my nose and mouth. Breathing was easier, but the pressure on my face was uncomfortable. The third one fitted over my nose and felt a bit snoutlike. Very attractive. Still, of the three, I suppose this was my “just right.” Dr. T said the data showed I breathed best with this mask, although I still opened my mouth (which defeats the purpose). He wants me to wear a chin strap in addition to the machine. It just gets better and better.

Now that I know what’s going on with my wacked body, I am actually looking forward to strapping on this wretched machine. Like Goldilocks, I hope I can climb into bed and fall into a deep sleep for the first time in a long time. See you in dreamland! Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Rolling the dice with boxed hair dye

Who doesn’t love a great haircut and fabulous color? The problem is I just hate sitting at a salon for the hours it takes to get those results.

I recently discovered Wing Salon in my community, and I got a lovely cut from the owner, Amie. She told me it would take 2-3 hours to get color, and I. just. couldn’t.

Instead, I grabbed a box of L’Oreal Excellence Creme at a local pharmacy. I had a little giggle when I translated the Thai name of the shade.

Check out the instructions! Good thing it’s not my first rodeo. (OK, full disclaimer: There were English instructions, too.)

It turned out a little less “sparkling dark blonde” and a little more “mahogany,” but it’ll do.

Keeping it real – snapshots instead of feature films

Transitions are tricky. Even when you transition to something better, there’s still a learning curve. My transition to Thailand has been wonderful in many ways: Tony is here and has a year of Bangkok under his belt. My school took such great care of me as I settled in my new house. And thanks to our time in Laos, the Southeast Asian culture is not entirely foreign.

Still, daily life requires learning something almost hourly as I try to navigate life. It seemed all my questions need answers immediately or I can’t function. One of my biggest challenges came as a surprise – being a vegetarian here is not at all simple. I feel like a neolithic hunter-gatherer (albeit hunting lentils, chickpeas, and tofu rather than wild animals) as I try to sort out my meals every day. Worse, my jetlag extended into chronic insomnia, which has robbed me of the rest and rejuvenation needed to power through each new day. I’m left edgy and emotional, not useful qualities in a middle school teacher.

All this is to say many special moments arise throughout my life here, AND I am exhausted. I often think, “Oh wow, I should blog about that!” but by the time I can sit down to write, I just want to crash on the sofa with a glass of wine and a mindless show on Netflix.

I had a revelation yesterday. The whole reason I started my blog was to document this incredible life for myself. I don’t have to wait for spectacular travel experiences or full-length feature stories. I’ll just share the interesting, weird, wonderful, and frustrating moments as they happen. So, stay tuned …

Lovely moment of the week: Our community was introduced to Naziya, a Pakistani woman who trained as an esthetician. Many of her family members have fled to Thailand to seek asylum, and one way they are making ends meet is by selling food. Always on the quest for good vegetarian meals and a sucker for a facial, I invited Naziya to my home for a treatment earlier this week. She cooked saag paneer and garlic naan for me, which was delicious, and I’m pretty sure I look 10 years younger after her glorious facial.

Crescente’s countdown – Equine Reproduction textbook comes to life

Enrolled in Equine Reproduction this semester, I have read extensively about mare and stallion anatomy, studied the process of oogenesis and spermatogenesis, watched a testicle dissection video, and even sculpted a horse vagina out of Play-doh. So I feel pretty book smart when it comes to making a baby horse. I just haven’t actually seen the final product. Until now!

Since starting my internship at Silver Moon Iberians, I’ve been helping to care for this sweet mare, Crescente, and hoping to be there for the birth of her baby. She was showing all the signs of being close: “bagging up,” which means her milk production started and her udders were beginning to fill; waxy plugs had formed on her teats; and her pelvic ligaments had relaxed (her tail area felt like a gel pillow). Plus, she was huge.

Crescente, 10 days before giving birth. Photo: by Sharon Madere.

Each day, Jess took a sample of Crescente’s milk to test with a pH strip. The pH of mammary secretions are around 8.0 to 8.5 until shortly before they are ready to foal, and then the pH drops significantly. When it reaches 6.4, there’s a good chance the stork will pay a visit.

The pH strips used to test a mare’s milk.

That happened last Tuesday. Everyone felt certain Crescente would deliver that night. Her owner, Sharon, set up a foal watch system for each of us to take shifts watching the barn cameras. I was on duty from 1 to 2 a.m., but then I couldn’t get back to sleep because I didn’t want to miss the big event! Turns out there was no big event. Later, Sharon realized the pH strips were old, so the results were unreliable.

Screenshot from my foal watch shift. For a minute, I thought something was happening until I realized that was just her wrapped tail.

On Friday, we brought the horses in from the pasture for breakfast and some grooming. When they were ready for turnout, I haltered Crescente and led her out of the barn. “Is that blood?” called Chris, one of the staff members. She pointed to two splotches on the barn’s concrete floor. If we had walked just a few more steps, the blood would have landed in grass, and we probably wouldn’t have noticed it. Sharon called the veterinarian, Dr. Carolin von Rosenberg, who came to the barn to make sure everything was OK.

Jess held Crescente’s halter and fed her a steady stream of sweet feed, while I held Crescente’s tail out of the way.

Dr. von Rosenberg cleaned up Crescente and inserted a speculum, which looked like the cardboard tube from a roll of wrapping paper. She examined Crescente for blood, but didn’t see anything suspicious. “Want to look in here?” she said, passing the penlight to me to have a peek.

Feeling fortunate to have this firsthand experience with the very stuff I’m studying in class, I looked through the tube at Crescente’s healthy, pink, tightly closed cervix. “How cool!” I exclaimed.

Dr. von Rosenberg then pulled on a shoulder-length latex glove and reached in to Crescente’s rectum. She pulled out some feces and tossed them in a bucket. Then she peeled off her glove, cleaned up Crescente, and re-gloved to insert the ultrasound probe.

A horse’s reproductive tract sits just beneath her gastrointestinal tract, so the vet can palpate the reproductive organs through the wall of the rectum and use an ultrasound to see a cross section of the uterus.

At first, Crescente’s exam seemed normal. Then Dr. von Rosenberg pointed to the screen and said, “This line right here is all placenta, but I’m not too happy with the way it looks. The problem is this placenta is separated from the wall, which means we’re looking at a red bag starting to happen.”

The equine placenta is made up of two parts: The amnion is the white, filmy bag that contains the fetus, and the chorioallantois, or “red bag,” attaches to the uterus and allows nutrients and waste to pass through the umbilical chord. In a normal delivery, the foal arrives first, and the red bag is passed within a few hours. However, in a red bag birth, the chorioallantois detaches prematurely from the uterus, cutting off the foal’s oxygen supply. If the baby is not immediately cut out of the red bag at birth, it will die.

Dr. von Rosenberg said the baby in utero was moving and seemed fine, but she recommended taking Crescente to the Equine Medical Center of Ocala (EMCO). Within 15 minutes, Crescente was in the trailer and headed to the hospital.

Monday morning, as Jess and I were working in the barn, we got a text from Sharon saying Crescente had foaled. It was a red bag birth, but the EMCO staff were able to intervene immediately to rescue the little colt. We all feel profoundly grateful for those splotches of blood on the concrete that ensured Crescente was at the right place at the right time to deliver her baby.

I could hardly wait to meet the little guy.

When he was just six hours old, the colt greeted us at his EMCO stall. He was up and walking around, a bit wobbly but determined. Unimpressed, Crescente didn’t act very maternal at first. Finally, Sharon realized the poor mama was hangry. She found a few flakes of alfalfa, and Crescente chomped away happily for almost two hours while her baby waddled around her in circles, poked at her teats trying to get the hang of nursing, and otherwise made a nuisance of himself. Finally, satiated, she licked her boy’s little face. He eventually tired out and awkwardly collapsed his gangly legs to take a nap.

Six hours old.
He was so soft and cuddly!

Yesterday, I met Sharon and her husband, Dave, at EMCO to load up Crescente and her boy in the trailer. We were all stressed about the 12-mile journey, worried that Crescente could stumble and accidentally trample her foal. I followed them home and breathed a sigh of relief when Crescente stepped out of the trailer with the baby skittering down the ramp behind her.

Sharon put them in a small pasture while she prepared their stall. Crescente seemed happy to be home, and after a little romp around the pasture, she settled down to grazing. She kept an eye on her boy, though, moving toward him when he ventured away. Clearly curious and brave, he explored his new surroundings, even approaching me for a scratch on his neck. Occasionally, he jumped in the air, bucked, or ran a circle around his mom and then dove under her for some milk. He’s already so tall, he has to reach down to nurse.

Crescente had gotten quite sweaty in the trailer, so after awhile, Sharon led her up to the barn for a quick rinse. Then mama and baby settled in to their stall for the night. Home sweet home.