Word of the Day: Fumarole
A fumarole (Latin fumus, smoke) is an opening in a planet’s crust, often in the neighborhood of volcanoes, which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. – Wikipedia

I was, in fact, “in the neighborhood of volcanoes” today in Beitou, a Taipei suburb at the base of Yangming Mountain in Taiwan. I felt profoundly grateful for those lovely fumaroles, which are among three conditions for forming natural hot springs, according to the Yangmingshan National Park website. In addition, to fumaroles, you need an underground supply of hot water and hydrostatic pressure to force it upwards. “In Yangmingshan National Park, the distribution of hot springs and fumaroles is controlled by a sandstone formation that underlies the 13 geothermal areas. Forces inside the earth’s crust cause the rock to rupture,” the website says.

Well, that’s all very science-y and fascinating. But do you know what’s even more wonderful? Soaking with your blissed-out friends in a bubbling sulfur vat of relaxation.

I’m in Taipei with Delhi friends Marianna and Jeni for a work conference, but I’m also meeting up with a group of besties from my Shanghai days. We first popped in on Kristi, who now lives in Taipei with her husband, Julian, and two adorable little boys. Her lovely apartment/art studio is right around the corner from our hotel. After a short visit yesterday, she offered to take us to the hot springs. Yes, please!

Kristi picked us up this morning, and we walked across the street to Jake’s Country Kitchen for blueberry pancakes. After a short drive up the mountain, we arrived at Spring City Resort, where we paid 700 New Taiwan Dollars, or about $22. Outside, we each exchanged our ticket for a blue plastic basket containing a couple towels, a cotton robe, flip flops, a locker key and a weird stretchy band that morphed into a disposable swim cap. The locker room, located up a short flight of rock steps, was clean and simple. We donned our swimsuits and robes and headed back down to the sulfur pools.

While ruling Taiwan (1895-1945), the Japanese discovered the perfect place to recreate their beloved hot springs culture: the hillsides of Taipei. Although the area turned a bit sleazy for awhile, gentrification and a direct metro line from the city center have created an upscale leisure destination.

The small pools at Spring City Resort featured signs that clarified specific therapeutic targets, such as “body slimming” or “alleviating frozen shoulders and promoting sleeps.” They ranged in size, depth, angle of jets, and temperature with the hottest water at 42°C or 107°F and the coldest unrecorded by me because there was no way I was getting in there. Shaded by flowering trees and surrounded by rock gardens, I felt the rejuvenating power of this mountain oasis.

Fresh spring water poured into each pool through a stone spout, nearly impossible to resist touching – thank goodness for the warning sign.

A stone slab, protected from the breeze by a bamboo screen, was heated by the hot water underneath and provided a nice dry spot to take a break from the pruning effect. After popping in and out of several pools, we showered, dressed and drove back down the mountain so Kristi could pick up her kids from school by 1:30. You really couldn’t ask for a more relaxing way to start the day!