Monthly Archives: October 2023

Daily Life, Thailand

Sunday Cycling At Bang Krachao

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The Chao Phraya River, which bisects Bangkok, makes a little loop in the southern part of the city, creating an urban oasis of mangrove forests and jungle perfect for exploring by bicycle. The “island” called Bang Krachao features bike paths, parks, a market, coffee shops, and other attractions for people seeking to escape the manic pace of Bangkok.

I recently joined Internations, a global organization that connects expats for social events and other opportunities. One of the Internations groups had scheduled a visit to Bang Krachao, so Tony and I tagged along yesterday afternoon.

Seventeen of us met at the Bang Na metro stop, where we all piled into a songtaew, a type of open-air truck taxi, for the ride to the pier. There, we caught a ferry and sailed across the river to Bang Krachao. Just a short walk from the ferry landing were several bike rentals, where we hopped on rickety well-used bikes and took off.

For some of the ride, we stayed in the bike lane on the main road, but other times we rode into the jungle on elevated concrete or wooden paths. Oftentimes, the narrow path lacked railings on one or both sides, which triggered some messed-up mind games. I mean, I know I can ride a bike in a straight line, but throw in the threat of plunging into a murky canal (likely full of snakes and monitor lizards) and suddenly I tense up, wobble the handlebars back and forth, and have to keep putting down a foot to stabilize myself. We were also pedaling very slowly and close together, adding to my stress and balance concerns.

Riding through the jungle areas, it was easy to forget the heart of Bangkok was just a stone’s throw away. The vegetation was lush and dense, and sounds of nature filled the air. In the village areas, it was fun to see a slice of life different from our everyday reality. People smiled at us and said hello. Kids waved. Roosters crowed, and ducks frolicked in puddles. One guy was taking a shower with his garden hose. Traffic got a little hectic for a bit.

Unfortunately, the insane amount of plastic waste dumped in the waterways served as a bleak reality check. Known as the green lung of Bangkok, Bang Krachao fights the same battles as the rest of the city when it comes to balancing nature and humanity.

We paused at a coffee shop for a short break, and I enjoyed chatting with others in the group. I met a scientist who writes about honeybees, a book editor, a businesswoman with a multinational company, a semi-retired lady, and more. In our international education bubble, it’s so rare that we talk to people who aren’t teachers.

At the end of the ride, the group gathered at a remote little restaurant for dinner, but a few of us opted to head back to town rather than risk riding in the dark without headlamps. We found our way to the pier, returned the bikes, and caught the ferry. All very easy!

Daily Life, Thailand

Bangkok Vegetarian Festival Delivers

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I love a food festival, but as a vegetarian, I usually face limited options. Not this week! My own little neighborhood and Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown celebrated the nine-day Tesagan Gin Je Festival, an annual event that honors the Taoist Nine Emperor Gods with a strict vegan diet.

The festival occurs annually during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar. This year’s event wraps up today. According to the Thailand Now website:

The Thai Vegetarian Festival is believed to have originated in Phuket, specifically the district of Kathu. The origin story begins in 1825, when a Chinese opera troupe visited the Andaman Pearl, and a few members fell hopelessly ill. 

In a desperate attempt to protect its members, the rest of the group maintained an exclusively vegan diet out of respect to the Nine Emperor Gods of Taoism, thought to have the power to heal illnesses. Whether by coincidence or divine veganism, the Chinese opera troupe recovered and the rest is history.

As the story spread, so did the belief that the Nine Emperor Gods visit earth to bless people during this festival. The rest of the year, they take their places as stars in the Big Dipper constellation.

During the festival, street vendors and restaurants hang yellow flags to indicate their vegetarian offerings. My first taste of the festival occurred Thursday in the neighborhood near my house. My Thai friend, Oon, took me to a Chinese temple, where volunteers were serving free vegetarian food three times a day.

We took a moment to light incense at the big golden Buddha, his round tummy making him distinctively Chinese compared to the slender Thai Buddha. Then Oon collected several bowls of food and brought them to me at a table. I had low expectations, considering this food was produced assembly line style. However, everything was delicious! I don’t really know what I ate other than noodles, veggies, rice, spicy papaya salad, and some tasty soup. After eating, we washed our own dishes, which seemed only fair.

I dropped a few baht in the donation box, chatted a bit with temple volunteers, and posed for a few photos. People seemed surprised that I eat vegetarian all the time. Local Buddhists generally go veg only on “Thai Buddhist Day” once a week.

On our way out, Oon grabbed a bag of snacks from a street vendor displaying the yellow flag. The snacks looked like deep-fried vegetable fritters, and they came with a lip-smacking sauce.

Eating unfamiliar food can be a stressful experience, so it’s always nice to have a person in the know to lead the way. Was I ready to face an even bigger food festival without Oon? There was only one way to find out.

Tony and I took the metro to Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, Saturday afternoon and emerged into throngs of tourists. We wandered a bit until we came across hundreds of food stalls adorned with yellow flags. Faced with such a plethora of options, I couldn’t make any decisions. Plus we were melting in the heat. We paused to check out a temple and a shrine, and then finally I felt ready to commit.

We purchased some food and then tucked behind the vendors’ stalls, where tables and stools were set up for diners. Everything was fantastic, although our mouths nearly caught fire from Tony’s mystery dish.

We decided to pop into a restaurant to put our mouth fires out with some cold beer. The air conditioning was divine, so we ended up ordering dim sum as well. Seemed a little indulgent considering all the fabulous festival food just beyond the door, but the AC won out.

This is what we ate. Yum!
Sweaty and ravenous.

As we headed back out to the street, we felt a few rain drops, and we had just flagged down a reluctant taxi driver when the deluge started. We got out of there in the nick of time, although we still wondered whether we’d make it home. The driver sighed and groaned and complained for almost an hour, understandably, as he slowly navigated through flooded streets and near zero visibility.

What a relief to get home with a full heart and a fuller belly.

On the Road

Horses + Nature = Much Needed Getaway to Chaowanat Horse Farm

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As our fall break approached, I knew I wanted to spend some time in nature. I also missed the presence of horses in my life. Fortunately, a friend recommended a perfect option: Chaowanat Horse Farm, a picturesque retreat located along a river and surrounded by low mountains, just a 3-hour drive away.

This was the view from our room. My plan was to sit on the deck all day with a book and a beer, but there were no chairs (or beers). The wooden bench that surrounded the deck was crawling with thousands of massive orange ants. Not very inviting.

The property featured a cozy restaurant and coffee shop, a massive garden, the stables, an arena, and plenty of green spaces. The owner was out of town, so his son checked us in to our room. I told him we wanted to plan some excursions, and he suggested it would be nearly impossible to get a taxi to pick us up. That was discouraging. We had hired a driver to take us to the farm, and after he left, we realized we were about 40 minutes from Kanchaburi town.

We booked a horse ride for the next morning but discovered we couldn’t go tubing on the river because the water level was too low. I was getting a little cranky.

The road leading to the farm.
I never get tired of seeing how bananas grow.
The stable.
Cute water taps at the restaurant’s bathroom.
Nice porch facing the arena (which was flooded … rainy season).
Comfy chairs inside the restaurant.
Lots of horsey decor.
Goofy dogs named Tofu and Little Bean.
Sitting area in the restaurant.

Tony and I lounged around the restaurant for a bit, ate lunch, went for a walk, checked out the horses, and then wandered back to the room. “I know what I need from this break, and I’m afraid I’m not going to get it,” I told him. I didn’t want to sit on the bed in an over airconditioned room for four days.

The next morning we met our cowboy guide, Ek, and our horses. Tony rode a stallion named Diamond, and I rode a gelding named Spicy. Ek told us they were American Quarterhorses. Something in my head shifted the minute I landed in the saddle. Horse energy gets me every time, and despite his name, Spicy was a sweet and gentle soul.

Ek led us out of the farm along muddy paths throughout the countryside. To be honest, Tony and I thought we were seeing marijuana plants. Thailand recently legalized weed, so we innocently assumed it was a cash crop. It’s clearly not an area of expertise for us. Ek clarified that the plants were actually cassava, one of Thailand’s major export products. If you’re as clueless about cassava as I was, check this out.

As we passed this herd of cattle, Ek laughed about how horses and cows in Thailand get spooked by each other. Ek had traveled to Texas once and appreciated that cowboy lifestyle. “No cutting here,” he laughed, referring to the use of horses to round up individual cows in a herd. Side note: How much do you love the floppy ears on these cows?

We emerged in a big meadow at one point, where Ek dismounted and hunkered down behind a clump of flowers.

“Go!” he shouted to us.

“Go where?” we asked each other.

We aimlessly wandered around until he finally got back on his horse and took the lead. A similar thing happened when we reached the river. “Go!” he shouted.

“Are we crossing the river?” I asked.

“No cross. Just go,” he said.

We clomped around in the shallow water, let the horses take a drink, and watched a little boy from the farm splash around. It was confusing.

Later, we realized Ek was taking photos and video of us. We were hopelessly noncompliant models. In retrospect, it was kind of hilarious. There are videos where we are just sitting still, staring at him. I’m sure he expected us to prance around a bit and exhibit some level of drama. Lesson learned.

As we were riding back to the farm, I said to Tony, “You know how I said I wasn’t getting what I needed from this break? Well, I’m getting it now!” I’m sure he was relieved.

After spending the next day touring some nearby sights, we headed back to Bangkok a day early, not because of any fault with the horse farm. It was bad planning on my part not to realize how isolated we would be.

The experience of travel can feel like one rookie mistake after another, even when you’ve been wandering the earth as long as we have. Each new place poses a learning curve. Fortunately, living abroad provides opportunities for a re-do. We definitely want to revisit this area of Thailand, but next time we’ll drive ourselves, stay somewhere with comfortable outdoor seating, and spend a day back at Chaowanat for a little horse time.

By the way, after checking out Chaonawat’s Instagram, I now realize we dropped the ball. We should have dressed up for lovely shots like this. Oh well, next time.

On the Road, Thailand

Lush beauty abounds at Erawan Falls

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Without our own mode of transportation during our stay in Kanchanaburi, we decided to book a tour to visit two local attractions: Erawan Falls and the Bridge on the River Kwai.

Our guide, Naa, was a bundle of energy and super keen to snap gajillions of photos for us (when did travel get so Instagrammy?). We made a quick stop at the Srinagarind Dam, which is used to regulate the flow of the Kwae Yai River and to produce hydroelectric power.

From there, we traveled a short distance to Erawan National Park to explore the Erawan Falls. The 5-kilometer roundtrip hike includes seven tiers of waterfalls.

Naa said we were on a tight schedule, so we prioritized hiking over swimming. She figured we would only have time to get to the 5th level, but clearly she didn’t realize there was no way I would leave without getting to the top! She posed us for a couple shots before sending us off on our own.

Apparently some hikers leave traditional Thai clothes as an offering to the forest spirits and ghosts.

We were impressed with the well-maintained paved trail, which Naa told us was built during the pandemic. Previously, hikers had to make the trek on slippery dirt paths. The hike was hard enough with the luxury of steep stairs; I can’t imagine doing this in the mud!

By this point, I would have loved to jump in the water. Tony and I were dripping with sweat, but I was determined to reach the 7th waterfall.

I did it! Tony stopped just short of the top. (Who does that?!) We had to hustle to get back down the hill in time because I still wanted to stick my feet in the water.

We agreed that this fabulous place deserved a whole day. Next time, we’ll pack a lunch, rent the required life jacket, and pause for a dip at each of the pools.

Back down at pool #3, a little school of fish waited patiently for some delicious foot skin to chomp. I had previously visited a fish spa, where tiny guppies nibbled at my heels. This was different. Look at the size of those guys! It felt awesome until they went for my arches, which tickled enough to trigger a shriek.

At the end of our hike, we met Naa and grabbed some lunch. Tony and I changed into dry clothes, and then we took off for the next part of our tour: the Death Railway.

On the Road, Thailand

The Death Railway – a dark, albeit Instagrammable, history lesson

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In 1942, the Japanese were on a roll. Within a few months of its surprise attack on Pearl Harbor, Japan had taken Singapore, defeated Allied units throughout the Malay peninsula, and pushed back British and Chinese forces to occupy Burma. However, as Japan prepared to invade India that June, the U.S. Navy scored a huge win with the Battle of Midway, making supply routes between Japan and Burma vulnerable.

Looking for another way to keep the supply of materials and reinforcements flowing to the frontlines, Japan opted to build an overland railway using forced labor, including an estimated 60,000 Allied prisoners of war and another 200,000 Southeast Asian civilians. Workers blasted away mountains, built bridges and embankments, and laid 258 miles of track through dense mosquito-infested jungle. They suffered from starvation, disease, torture, and harsh labor.

More than 16,000 POWs and 90,000 civilians died in the brutal conditions during the railway’s construction. Many British, Australian, and Dutch victims were buried at the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, while the bodies of U.S. casualties were shipped home.

The 1957 movie, “The Bridge on the River Kwai,” brought notoriety to the railway, and tourists still flock to the area to ride the train. The actual bridge from the movie doesn’t exist, but people pay tribute at the Bridge on River Khwai Yai in Kanchanaburi. Tony and I were woefully clueless about the railway’s history before visiting, but our guide, Naa, provided a lot of information.

After learning what had transpired here, it was a bit disconcerting to see tourists sitting cross-legged on the tracks, making peace signs and grinning for the camera as they waited for the train to arrive.

We rode the train for about an hour through verdant countryside to reach the famous bridge and bid farewell to our guide. After a carefree morning of romping around the national park, the railway provided a sobering reminder of the area’s darker history.

This cave next to the train station was used by the Japanese during construction of the railway.

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At the Bridge on the River Kwai, which has experienced some post-war upgrades.

Daily Life, Thailand

Catching up – life’s bits and bobs

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Here are a few little stories that escaped mention in the last month or so.

Hotel Bash

At my school’s “Welcome Back Party,” we enjoyed a fabulous buffet (with heaps of delicious vegetarian options!) and hit the dancefloor to boogie on down. Tony rode the metro to the Novotel to join the festivities and meet some of my new colleagues. I didn’t take any good shots inside the ballroom, but there’s never a balloon shortage here for posing.

Belgian Bliss

A couple of weeks later, Tony and I headed to Belga, a dreamy rooftop restaurant at the Sofitel Hotel. The food gave me goosebumps, and the view wasn’t half bad either.

Zumba

Several of us get together on Mondays after school for Zumba, offered by one of the teachers for free. With two left feet, I’m quite pathetic, but I was slowly starting to learn some of the moves. Then an injury forced me to take a break. What kind of injury? Well, you won’t feel sorry for me … I was lying on my back getting a Thai massage when the lady bent my left leg and rotated it inward. She pushed down hard on my knee, and I knew right away that she had done some damage. I’ve been nursing it for a few weeks now, and I think I’m ready to Zumba again!

Pool Party

A monitor lizard recently took a dip in our school pool moments before a first-grade class was due for their swimming lesson. Apparently, there are two of these guys who live under the boarding dormitory. I like to imagine they head out for a stroll every evening after the students have gone to bed, wrapping up their night with a moonlight swim.

Fall Fest

My friend, Sara, is all about community. So I wasn’t surprised that she started a committee here to organize community events and activities. The group’s name, RISidents, stems from the abbreviation for our school: Ruamrudee International School. On Sept. 30, the RISidents staged an epic event called Fall Fest. Designed to evoke cozy feelings of a crisp autumn evening in mid-America (despite it being rainy season here with temps in the 80s), Fall Fest featured live music, a bouncy castle, a beer garden, food vendors, a plethora of decorations in an autumnal color palette, and more. I coordinated some of the children’s games, and I think the kids had fun. Here, Tony and I toss fake leaves in the air at the photo booth.

Speaking of rainy season …

After committing to a scooter rental for the next year, I’ve been a little apprehensive about all this rain. Fortunately, it tends to hold off until after I get home from school. But not always. Twice in the last week, I drove to school in full rain gear with my work clothes in my backpack. My worst rain encounter, however, occurred after chaperoning the middle school dance. When I scooted out of the parking lot, a fine mist was sprinkling from the sky. I figured it wasn’t worth stopping to get my rain coat out of my bag. Within moments, the clouds erupted. By the time I pulled into my driveway, a rainwater river was pouring down the back of my pants. Tony was waiting for me, and we both had a good laugh.

And now we’re all caught up! Stay tuned for stories about our October break …

On the Road, Thailand

Beach therapy – the perfect antidote to transition stress

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Within the first five weeks of my arrival in Thailand, I had already spent two weekends at the beach. It’s just too easy and too fabulous. Four hours door to door, and I can be lounging on a beachside beanbag on the lovely little island of Ko Samet.

The first beach getaway was organized for teacher families from my school the weekend of August 11. It was a long weekend after our first week of school, and I felt super stressed that I should use that time to plan my lessons and get a grip on my new position as a middle school English Language Development (ELD) teacher. As the weekend approached, I repeatedly wrote and then deleted texts to the organizer with the intention to bail. Instead, I climbed aboard one of the vans, which took us to a speedboat, which buzzed across the Gulf of Thailand to deliver us to the island. There, we piled into songthaeos, partially enclosed pickup trucks with bench seats that serve as taxis, for the short ride to the hotel.

I joined another teacher for dinner by the water and then headed to bed. Rising before the sun, I walked down to the beach and let the surf roll over my feet. Each wave seemed to wash away another level of stress. I couldn’t believe I almost hadn’t made the trip!

My daily walk and sunrise scenery.

I spent most of the weekend here, reading my book on a beanbag lounge chair at the Reef Bar & Restaurant. I only had to stand up and turn around to order food, a fresh coconut, or cocktails from the bartender.

A few steps from my beanbag, several ladies had set up beachfront massage tables. Here, I’m getting a foot massage.

After three nights, I felt rejuvenated. What a treat! As the saltwater spray kissed my face on the speedboat trip back to the mainland, I felt deep gratitude for such a special weekend.

Despite knowing how restorative this was, I felt the same anxiety creeping in as the next scheduled beach weekend approached. A bit overwhelmed with the minutiae of my new life and job, I toyed with skipping. However, this was a ladies weekend, and I was still trying to find my tribe. I knew FOMO would rule the day. And so, I jumped in another van for another trip to Ko Samet the weekend of Aug. 25.

Check out the gold and bling of this van’s interior.

Sure enough, my sunrise walk replaced my stress with bliss. I landed on the same beachbag lounger and essentially repeated the previous weekend, only with a few different faces. Sunrise strolls and then: read, eat, chat with new friends, swim in the sea, get a massage, repeat.

One night, we popped over to the other side of the island for the sunset. It was a little anticlimactic thanks to the overcast skies, but it was fun to hang out with this lovely group.

At the pier on the way home, I saw this unusual lady. Not sure who she’s meant to be, but she cracked me up.

Now that I know how easy and rewarding it is to treat myself with an island getaway, I plan to do this more often. And I’ll take Tony with me next time!