The Chao Phraya River, which bisects Bangkok, makes a little loop in the southern part of the city, creating an urban oasis of mangrove forests and jungle perfect for exploring by bicycle. The “island” called Bang Krachao features bike paths, parks, a market, coffee shops, and other attractions for people seeking to escape the manic pace of Bangkok.
I recently joined Internations, a global organization that connects expats for social events and other opportunities. One of the Internations groups had scheduled a visit to Bang Krachao, so Tony and I tagged along yesterday afternoon.
Seventeen of us met at the Bang Na metro stop, where we all piled into a songtaew, a type of open-air truck taxi, for the ride to the pier. There, we caught a ferry and sailed across the river to Bang Krachao. Just a short walk from the ferry landing were several bike rentals, where we hopped on rickety well-used bikes and took off.
For some of the ride, we stayed in the bike lane on the main road, but other times we rode into the jungle on elevated concrete or wooden paths. Oftentimes, the narrow path lacked railings on one or both sides, which triggered some messed-up mind games. I mean, I know I can ride a bike in a straight line, but throw in the threat of plunging into a murky canal (likely full of snakes and monitor lizards) and suddenly I tense up, wobble the handlebars back and forth, and have to keep putting down a foot to stabilize myself. We were also pedaling very slowly and close together, adding to my stress and balance concerns.
Riding through the jungle areas, it was easy to forget the heart of Bangkok was just a stone’s throw away. The vegetation was lush and dense, and sounds of nature filled the air. In the village areas, it was fun to see a slice of life different from our everyday reality. People smiled at us and said hello. Kids waved. Roosters crowed, and ducks frolicked in puddles. One guy was taking a shower with his garden hose. Traffic got a little hectic for a bit.
Unfortunately, the insane amount of plastic waste dumped in the waterways served as a bleak reality check. Known as the green lung of Bangkok, Bang Krachao fights the same battles as the rest of the city when it comes to balancing nature and humanity.
We paused at a coffee shop for a short break, and I enjoyed chatting with others in the group. I met a scientist who writes about honeybees, a book editor, a businesswoman with a multinational company, a semi-retired lady, and more. In our international education bubble, it’s so rare that we talk to people who aren’t teachers.
At the end of the ride, the group gathered at a remote little restaurant for dinner, but a few of us opted to head back to town rather than risk riding in the dark without headlamps. We found our way to the pier, returned the bikes, and caught the ferry. All very easy!
