Tag Archives: New Delhi

Sariously?!

Why must fabrics in India be so pretty?! How can a girl resist?
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My friend Nancy played host for a little sari party last night. A man, whose name I failed to get in my bling-induced fervor, brought heaps of fabric, saris, lehengas (a long full skirt with belly top), and embroidered salwar kameez suits (long blousy top with Hammer pants).

Nancy took these photos with her phone, mostly with hands shaking from laughter.

This is one of my favorite moments of the evening, when Nancy’s maid, Sonu, took the bindi off her own face and stuck it on Nancy for the full effect.
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Andi looks like a fairy princess in this lehenga. She wins the prize for best adjective: “bedazz-erific.”
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Sandra couldn’t be bothered with asking Sari Man to wrap her properly.
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Katrina tried this lehenga on first, but then I tackled her and stole it. Because a girl can’t have too many lehengas … and because my other lehenga is gold and red, and my Chinese feng shui horoscope said I should be wearing more blue to counter my “pitta” fire element. See? I can justify ANY purchase.
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A walk in the park

After three months of moaning about the cold and smog, I parted the drapes Sunday morning to find blue skies!

Our little park across the street suddenly burst into color with patches of flowers, so I forced my sleestak of a husband to leave the house and stroll through the gardens.

Grass doesn’t seem to interest anyone here, and whoever planted the flowers clearly hasn’t researched what to plant where. For example, marigolds ringed a huge tree, blooming on the sunny side and withering on the shady side, as would be expected. True, too, for the vast stretches of poppies lining the fence.

If we’ve learned anything as global residents, though, it’s that not everyone does things the way WE do things. And that’s OK. And I should stop judging and enjoy the park.

Blue skies!

See, it’s a GOOD thing they don’t cultivate the grass because these cricket-playing kids would just mess it up.

Napping in the sunshine.

Poppies! Beautiful poppies! (Admit it: You can’t say “poppies” without using your Wicked Witch of the West voice. It’s OK. We all do it.)

Ahhh, fresh-ish air!

So much strolling is hard on us senior citizens.

Bumbling through Bollywood

When it comes to dance, I have neither skill nor inhibitions, which explains my tendency to get stupid on the dance floor. I’m happy to settle for laughs if admiration is out of the question. My first Bollywood dance lesson Saturday afternoon was no exception. Dizzy from spinning and unable to keep my lotus fingers pointing in the right direction, I took excessive water breaks and offered encouraging words to my fellow participants.

Gina Shah, a lovely young dancer from Atlanta, is studying classical Indian dance and visiting her sister (whose husband is stationed here with the U.S. Embassy) for the next couple weeks. She accompanied her sister to Nancy’s Zumba class a few times and offered to repay the favor with a private lesson. We met at Nancy’s house and tried to follow Gina’s lead. As you can see here, she’s pretty fantastic!

The other ladies wouldn’t let me post a video with us in the frame. Maybe after a LOT more practice!

Even standing still, my fingers look wonky.
Me and Cristi in the back; Katrina, Gina and Nancy in the front.
(Disclaimer: Nancy is making me point out that she is not pregnant. Her funky harem pants and blouse are just loose and billowy.)

Sari Saturday

Picture this: A teaching assistant on playground duty intercepts a wayward soccer ball, picks it up and hefts it back to the players. Did you picture her in an aqua-colored sari, the skirt swishing around her feet, the loose end tossed over her shoulder and flapping in the breeze? Probably not, but that’s what she was wearing!

Even after seven months in India, I remain entranced by the prevalence of women – from all walks of life – dressed in saris. The long flowing sari seems so cumbersome to me, but Indian women carry it off effortlessly and elegantly.

A sari is a long swath of fabric – up to 9 yards! – wrapped in a specific way without zippers or buttons or pins. Ladies wear a petticoat underneath with a midriff-baring top called a “choli.” Every region of India seems to have its own style of sari, not to mention all the fashion trends and myriad designers. As a foreigner who likely won’t need more than a couple saris, how will I ever choose?

Enter Skye Sanford, elementary music teacher, who has lived here for six years. Saturday morning she led 10 of us on a sari expedition to Babu Market, a section of the popular Sarojini Market. We filed in to Harish Kumar’s shop, sat on the benches and watched as the salesmen slowly pulled sari after sari off the shelves and out of their cellophane bags, unfurling miles of stunning fabric. A sari collector, Skye explained what we were seeing and steered us away from poor quality or unfortunate fashion trends (such as saris made of tulle).

Based on my experience in Turkish carpet shops (flash back to emotional meltdowns and street fights with Tony), I needed to scope out the sari scene a couple times before I buy. I was happy to watch, learn and snap some photos, but I will definitely go back. Who wants to join me?

Salesman at the ready.

The show begins.

Picking favorites.

Skye added two more saris to her collection!

Sandra and Alicia get wrapped.

Eva looks lovely in gray … but I think she bought this style in blue.

Sandra tries on another sari. You can’t do it by yourself!

Decisions, decisions!

The salesmen tossed saris back and forth across the shop.

Sari pile.

A little shrine in the shop.

Alicia ironically pulled out “Real Simple” from her bag …

… at the same time Mr. Kumar tallied the bill.

Discover India Week at AES

Discover India Week, Jan. 27-Feb. 3, was my favorite week so far at the American Embassy School here in New Delhi! Every morning started with dancers and musicians at the school gates. The hallways burst with color as students and teachers dressed in their Indian clothes. Children tried their hand at block-printing, pottery, traditional construction methods and other cultural pursuits. Everything felt so … Indian!

Each grade level focused on a specific aspect of Indian culture across the curriculum. I teach third graders, who explored Indian Folktales and Stories Showing Courage. They learned about India’s visual storytelling tradition with demonstrations by Sharon Lowen, the head of Indian Studies at AES. She visited their classrooms with story scrolls and a wooden box that opened to reveal hinged panels painted with beloved tales of Hindu gods.

Lowen, a renowned expert in three forms of classical Indian dance, also demonstrated storytelling through Odissi dance movements. She brought some of the kids up on stage for a workshop.

Students met puppeteer Anurupa Roy, who taught them how to transfer the nuances of physicality from their own bodies to the puppets on their hands.

Many artisans spent the week at our school, demonstrating their crafts and selling the products. I was most fascinated by this guy, who made “lac” bangles. They are quite expensive, and I never understood why. Now I do! The craftsman makes the bracelets from “lac,” a type of tree resin by warming it over hot coals until it’s pliable. Then he twists and works the resin, using a mold to distribute it evenly. Very interesting!

Other artisans demonstrated glass blowing, kite construction, traditional toy making, weaving, and wooden puppet carving. Here’s a slideshow.

Walk for Life – we suffer so cancer patients won’t have to

Deep sigh.
I’ve avoided writing this post because (a) I’m trying to block out the experience, and (b) because it’s mean and probably unlucky to write a snarky post about an organization that provides care for cancer patients, right? Right.
So, here goes.

CanSupport, a local organization that provides services for cancer patients, recently set up a registration booth for its annual Walk for Life in the school courtyard where I often eat lunch. I figured, “Sure! I’ll pay $6 to benefit this worthy cause and participate in a blog-worthy event.” An all-staff email encouraged participants to walk together with the AES banner. I looked forward to meeting some colleagues and chatting along the route.

On the morning of Feb. 5, I rode to the Walk for Life with a few other teachers, and we tried in vain to hook up with the rest of the AES group. The starting line was literally mobbed with an estimated 8,000 walkers, and the groups with banners stood on the other side of the mob and past some security tape. How were we supposed to get over there? We never did figure it out.
Security at the entrance.

I wanted a photo of our little group with the sign, but before I could stop them, some clowns jumped in the picture. I’m not a huge fan of clowns.

Waiting with the mob: John, me, Katrina and Lea Carol.

The 4-kilometer walk followed Rajpath, (“King’s Road” in Hindi) a street that runs from Delhi’s iconic India Gate to the president’s house. The India Gate was shrouded in smog, but I appreciated it nonetheless.

Mrs. Gursharan Kaur, wife of the Prime Minister of India, waved the flag to kick off the walk, and we ever so slowly shuffled forward.
And they’re off! Like a herd of turtles.

I discovered that Delhiwallas walk just like they drive: sprint forward quickly, then stop, turn, move on the diagonal, pause, back up, clump together, push others out of your way, and yell a lot. Many walkers brought their dogs. One canine participant left a steaming souvenir right in the path. Luckily, it happened while there was a gap in front of my group, so we saw and dodged the poo bomb. I’m sure others packed in behind us were not so lucky. Groups of school children shrieked the names of their schools over and over … and over … and over. Individuals spotted acquaintances in the distance and screamed out to them repeatedly, despite the obvious sound-drowning effect of the school kids.

At one point, we passed our AES group after a turn-around point. I could have jumped over the security tape that separated the two paths, but I didn’t want to literally cut corners and cheat myself out of doing the whole walk.

To redeem myself for the self-righteous, culturally insensitive, judgmental nature of this post, I will now provide the link to CanSupport and a heartfelt solicitation for your support. It really is an important organization that brings information, comfort, palliative care, medication and equipment subsidies, and counseling to cancer patients and their families.

The best part is there is a “Donate” button so you never ever have to participate in the Walk for Life again. (Unless you have a crowd/dog poo/high-pitched noise/chaos void you need to fill.)

Field-tripping through historic Delhi

Last week, the whole third grade visited two historical sites – Humayun’s Tomb and Purana Qila – just a short drive from the American Embassy School. My group visited Humayun’s Tomb first, clipboards in hand to record notes in their “See-Think-Wonder” booklets. I was thrilled to meet Gayetri, a third-grader’s mom and a New Delhi native, who joined our group and shared her expertise on the two sites. As the kids sketched pictures inside the austere 450-year-old tomb, I looked up at the carved lattice screens and imagined veiled women standing on the balcony praying over the marble memorial of their fallen emperor. How fortunate are these students who get to walk in the footsteps of people they study in the classroom? How exciting to see the excavation and restoration first hand!

Construction on Humayun’s Tomb started in 1565, 14 years after his death. The second Mughal Emperor, he ruled present day Afghanistan, Pakistan, and parts of northern India from 1530–1540 and again from 1555–1556. (During the gap, the region came under the rule of Pashtun noble Sher Shah Suri, but Humayun’s army ultimately won back the territory.) His tomb was the first “paradise garden”-concept tomb on the Indian subcontinent and inspired many architectural innovations. Stone channels criss-cross the complex, providing water for irrigation. We strolled through the peaceful gardens, climbed steep steps to the terrace, and entered the 47-meter-high tomb. We all agreed the low-lying fog added to the tomb’s mystique. As we were leaving the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the children excitedly spotted a worker painting designs in a restored alcove.

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If you’re interested in learning more about Humayun’s Tomb, Wikipedia has a nice page about it. The Aga Khan Development Network website explains the restoration work under way at the site.

After a short bus ride, the kids piled out at Purana Qila. Emperor Humayun founded the city of Dina-panah (the sixth city to be located in what is now Delhi) in 1533, and Purana Qila was the city’s inner fort. Some highlights for the students and me included the ruins of a hamam that had cutting-edge steam rooms and running hot water (which is more than I can say for my New Delhi apartment); a baoli (well) with 89 steps leading down to the fort’s source of fresh water; and the Qila-i-Kuna Mosque, where our students hunkered down for a few moments of quiet. They even knelt in the mihrab, facing Mecca, to emulate Muslims praying here. I wasn’t sure whether that would be offensive to anyone, but the kids found it meaningful, so I just let it go.
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Another fascinating building at Purana Qila was the Sher Mandel, Humayun’s observatory and library. On Jan. 24, 1556, the emperor had been star gazing when he reportedly rushed down the stairs to evening prayers. Tripping over his long robe, he fell and died of his injuries two days later.
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Good ‘ol Wikipedia does a fine job reporting on Purana Qila, if you want to read more.

Seeing history unfold era by era is one of my favorite parts of exploring India. At both our field trip destinations, I was reminded of Humayun’s son, Akbar, and great-grandson, Shah Jahan. I visited some of their old stomping grounds – including the Taj Mahal – near Agra last August.

My posse and me.
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Times of India – all the news that’s fit to … confuse

For the last 10 years, Tony and I have lived abroad in a disconcerting cloud of ignorance. Lacking fluency in our host country’s language, we miss out on key news items, social discourse on current events, celebrity gossip, and other societal tidbits that make people feel “at home.” I invested countless hours in learning Turkish and Mandarin – and to a lesser degree, Lao – but my local news was still limited to foreigner-oriented magazines and censored English-language newspapers. Here in India, I eagerly subscribed to the local paper, The Times of India, which has the largest circulation of all English-language newspapers in the world. I felt my time as a clueless expat had come to an end … until I started reading.

Vague headlines, unexplained acronyms, “English” words that make no sense to me, Hindi words tossed in for flavor, breaking news without any back story, and assumed familiarity with Indian politicians and Bollywood stars – it all adds up to utter confusion. Here are a few examples.

This teaser was on the front page of last Sunday’s paper:
Creamy layer bar set to be raised?
The National Commission for Backward Classes has proposed raising the bar for creamy layer – from Rs 4.5 lakh income a year to Rs 12 lakh – effectively extending reservation benefits to many more members.
(What is a backward class? What is a creamy layer? What is a lakh? What are reservation benefits? The full story on page 8 only raised more questions. I had to spend a significant amount of time on Wikipedia just to understand that ONE sentence! Spoiler alert: The “creamy layer” has nothing to do with Oreos.)

Another Sunday edition gem:
Swamy to file FIR on black money
Janata Party president Subramanian Swamy on Saturday said he will soon register an FIR with CBI on the issue of black money.
(The article never defines FIR, CBI or black money. At least they explained that Swamy is the president of the Janata Party, which is …?)

This showed up in yesterday’s paper:
BJP councillors in rath yatra mode, MCD business hit
With BJP leader LK Advani’s rath yatra now just a day away from the Capital, the party’s municipal councillors are caught up in preparations for his reception at Ramlila Maidan on Sunday, leaving the MCD’s affairs in disarray, sources say.
(Rather than explaining the acronyms, the story actually throws out a couple more – RP and BSP. What’s “rath yatra” and is it anything like the “wrath of Khan”? I suppose I’ll never know.)

So, it’s not just my head cold or the smog that’s creating such a haze. Upon further reflection, maybe I should abandon efforts to stay informed. Maybe it’s not so important that I “fit in.” Maybe ignorance really is bliss.

Munnerlyns in Delhi – Golden!

I sang it in Girl Scouts, and it still rings true:
“Make new friends, but keep the old.
One is silver, the other is gold.”

Some of our favorite people from the Shanghai days swept through New Delhi last week, and I am still feeling the glow. Tim, Jen and Sydney Munnerlyn were our downstairs neighbors at Green Court in Shanghai. They left China the year before we did and now live in Abu Dhabi. Sydney, a wee 4-year-old when we met her, is now a sensitive, beautiful, fifth-grade blogger, horsewoman, actress, swimmer, traveler, storyteller. How special to be part of her life experience!

The Gandhi Smriti affected me so deeply that I wanted to share it with the Munnos.

Saturday evening, our school held its big Fall Fiesta, a Halloween party/fund-raiser for high school service clubs. Tony volunteered for the dunk tank, but got reassigned to the pie-in-the-face booth. Turns out Sydney has a good arm.
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I had planned Sunday breakfast with a group of former Shanghai American School teachers who now work here at AES, but only Cheryl Perkins was able to make it.

Syd bought a leather-bound journal and a pack of jewel-encrusted pens at Dilli Haat, a local handicrafts market. She couldn’t wait to start writing.
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Zangoora, which bills itself as the “only Bollywood stage musical,” took place at a Vegas-y venue called Kingdom of Dreams. It featured horrifically loud music and hilariously bad English dubbing (piped into our headsets), but also outrageous special effects and brilliant dancing. A definite Delhi “don’t miss”!
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Still new to India, Tony and I were not the best tour guides. We hauled them to a few places in town, dragged them to school and then sent them off to Rajasthan for a few days. The best part of their visit for me, though, was the seamless simple process of reconnecting.

(The photos at the Fall Fiesta, Dilli Haat and Zangoora are stolen from Jen’s Facebook page.)