Tag Archives: Christmas Market

christmas dinner – The continuing saga of how I ate my way through Germany

Returning from a walk around the Eibsee lake at the base of the Zugspitz, I checked the Christmas market schedule posted on our hotel bulletin board. The market was open till 8 p.m., but the only event listed was “Schmankerln.”

I asked Nicole, the assistant manager, “Was ist ‘schmankerln’?” She fumbled for a moment, looked at the others working behind the counter. “Schmankerln is …”
“Food?” I asked.
“Yes, but it’s more of a, well, you know … Bavarian Schmankerln!” she said with a laugh.
Finally, Julian, the hotel owner, said, “It’s like tapas. Small portions.”
Later I found the translation online: delicacies.

As anyone would do, I immediately decided to eat all the Schmankerln at the market. This would be the best Christmas dinner EVER!

We started with bratwurst and gluhwein, of course.
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Moved on to Schupfnudeln, fried gnocchi-like noodles with meat sauce, cheese and sour cream.
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Gulasch soup with rye bread.
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Mmm … creamy raclette – melted cheese on potatoes.
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More soup. Pumpkin, usually my favorite. Disappointing.
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Tony finally got embarrassed and went back to the hotel. I wish I had a dollar for every time that’s happened.
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Moving right along … possibly the highlight of the night: a crepe with camembert cheese and “Preiselbeere” jam. I had never heard of preiselberries before, but they taste similar to cranberries.
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Clearly I was too caught up in this Schmankerlfest to tuck that piece of hair back under my hat.
Next stop, hot roasted chestnuts. Yum!
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By this time, the Schokohütte didn’t appeal to me, but I had to soldier on. Dark-chocolate covered strawberries. Surprisingly refreshing!
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A bite of Summer’s marshmallowy Kussmix wrapped up the tour of Bavarian tapas.
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Innsbruck – same sleet, different city

The weather turned nasty on Friday, so we hopped on a train to Austria and spent the day in Innsbruck.

On the train.
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Even though the freezing rain smeared my mascara every time I looked up, there was no avoiding it. Stunning medieval architecture with painted facades and whimsical wrought-iron shop signs lined the pedestrian zone, which led us to the Goldenese Dachl (Golden Roof).

This isn’t a great photo; my fingers were frozen.
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Mike and Summer taking shelter under the Golden Roof (Again, numb fingers lead to poor composition.)
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Here’s what planetware.com has to say about it:

This magnificent Late Gothic oriel window roofed with gilded copper tiles was built in 1494-96 to commemorate Maximilian I’s marriage to Bianca Maria Sforza and served as a box from which the court watched civic festivities in the square below. The house behind, completely rebuilt in 1822, was previously a ducal palace (the Neuer Hof), formed by the conversion, at some time after 1420, of two earlier burghers’ houses. The lower balustrade is decorated with coats of arms, the open balcony above with 10 figural reliefs. The Golden Roof is made up of 2,657 gilded copper tiles.

A small Christmas market offered up some of my favorites: bratwurst with mustard, waffles with berries and whipped cream, and hot mugs of spiced wine. We browsed in the market, walked down to the river and then warmed up in a coffee shop before heading back to Germany.

Entering the pedestrian zone at the Triumph Gate (built by Empress Maria Theresia in 1665).
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Typical building.
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Mom and Dad sipping gluhwein.
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Cold on the outside, warm on the inside.
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At the Inn River.
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Mmmm … gluhwein.
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Yucky weather, as seen from the train.
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Heading back to Germany.
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